This page was last updated: 19 April 2012 23:47

Tuesday 27 Sep 2011

We left Brighton at 09:45 on a dull misty morning heading west to Portsmouth, our home port. The sun tried to break through and eventually succeeded at about 11:30 making the last leg home a pleasant sunbathing trip. We eventually arrived in Hornet Sailing Club at 16:45 and were going to stay on board tonight but the fact that the powers that be are testing the brow tomorrow, we decided to make our way home. So that's that 2011 project done and dusted, all we have to do now is sort out some piccies and find where they fit in our diary.

The challenge now is to fix the boat! It'll take me ages to sort out emails to new and old friends apart from wading through five months worth of mail and making appointments with various life support groups, like the dentist and doc.

Monday 26 Sep 2011

The lie-in ended at 07:30 when Christine was heard rustling about sending emails and making phone calls. The weather was just about acceptable for journeying to Brighton and we decided to get underway through the lock at 10:30. In the meantime, friends we had made in Leewarsmeer on the way up to the Baltic paid us a visit and after an exciting chat, decided a meal in Brighton was just the ticket later today.

The journey was, thankfully, short and took us a mere 4 hours. Coming round Beachy Head, although at slack water, was a little lumpy but acceptable as we went close inshore to avoid the overfalls. From there the journey was a doddle with the wind just about sailable at 30 degrees off the port bow. Initially we were allocated a berth susceptible to the incoming swell but thankfully they re-allocated us a nice berth fairly close to the exit gate. This afternoon after a small nap I will spruce up ready for our guests this evening.

Mmmm, lovely evening with friends. Very nice evening out for a meal and discussed all aspects of our journeys this summer. Now its bedtime before tomorrows trip to our home port.

Sunday 25 Sep 2011

The bacon and egg went down very well and the day began with the sun shining brightly. At 12:30 we topped up the diesel and headed for the western exit to Dover harbour having got port control permission. With the 15 knots of wind on the nose and the short waves the boat 'bounced' along making the journey just a little uncomfortable, even when we came off the wind. The daylight diminished into night at about 19:30 just as we rounded Dungeness and we seemed to take forever leaving the headland behind us. Fortunately, we only saw two lobster pot markers, which came up some 10 metres away - agh, we are back in England, I thought.

Ben did not enjoy the journey at all, with all the rocking about on the short waves and we all concluded that the journey was not one of our favourites. We locked into Sovereign marina at 22:00 moored up and put on a DVD to unwind, but within ten minutes we decided sleep was more enticing. Tomorrow is either a rest day or we will move on to Brighton, around Beachy Head.

Saturday 24 Sep 2011

Just as Christine and Ben left to catch the ferry from Calais the red & amber light came on to indicate the bridge would open in ten minutes which meant I could leave at 08:30. The sun was shining and there was just enough wind to cause a ripple on the sea. I departed through the Hanon bridge with about twenty five small fishing boats all heading out to sea to catch fish; mayhem for fifteen minutes! Leaving early meant that the tide would push me toward the Goodwin sands if I crossed the Traffic Separation Scheme at right angles but the advantage would be that I would arrive at Dover marina at the same time as Christine. It worked well apart from a small glitch when a coaster was being towed into Dover and I couldn't go in through the western entrance, Port Control instructed me to enter by the eastern entrance immediately after two ferries left and one ferry entered. The inconvenience wasn't too much to bare and I entered the marina just has Christine arrived from the ferry with Ben - perfect timing at 13:00.

This afternoon we visited the town to do a little shopping and to get our hands on a new 3G SIM card now that we are back in the UK. Tomorrow we're having bacon and egg for a leisurely breakfast and then make for Eastbourne at around lunchtime.

Friday 23 Sep 2011

Leaving Dunkerque at 11:00, we had a pleasant passage to Calais under engine, with a 7 knot wind on the nose. Once inside the main harbour we made our way to the waiting buoys for entrance into Bassin de l'Ouest via Hanon bridge. The bridge opens 2, 1 HW 1.25 and 2.5 hours, which meant waiting almost 4 hours on the buoy. we eventually got access and had a quick drink in the yacht club where we were given the code for the facilities, in the absence of any sign of the harbour master.

Tomorrow, once Christine sets off with Ben for the ferry, I will get out at the first opportunity and wait for a suitable time to cross to Dover where I can pick up Christine and Ben.

Thursday 22 Sep 2011

Well it appears the weather is slowly improving but wind still on the nose. For some reason the sea state was slightly worse than yesterday, but still tolerable. The sun was poking through the clouds as we left at 10:00 having navigated the mile long entrance and it got better as we sailed on. We arrived in Dunkerque at 14:00, had a bite and arranged for Ben to visit the vet in order to get him 'fixed' for the ferry journey from Calais to Dover. Christine has managed to book the ferry for Saturday, so that means I'll make the journey by yacht and pick her up in Dover. Our decision to visit the vet here was a good one for it only cost £35.00 instead of a possible £100-200.00 at Calais.

So far the day has been productive and relatively good weather, lets hope it stays that way.

Wednesday 21 Sep 2011

We got away at 09:45 this morning and through the harbour entrance at 10:05. Although the wind was between 18 and 23 knots, on the nose, the sea state was lumpy but tolerable for the 23 mile journey to Nieuwport. On entering the long lead-in to the harbour we dropped the sails and headed for the fuel pontoon where we topped up and then took a mooring in the Belgian Air Force Yacht Club marina.

There isn't a lot to do here except, perhaps, visit the chandlers. We will just rest up, watch a DVD and move on, with luck, tomorrow.

Tuesday 20 Sep 2011

Still in Zeebrugge and looking to get a favourable weather forecast for Wednesday (Fat chance!). The experience we have of sailing south from here is that the shallow waters around the shifting sand banks makes the sea state quite lumpy with a wind with a south in it over force 4-5. Hopefully, the neap tide and the prospect of a reducing wind will allow us to move on.

We used the marinas free bicycles today to do a little shopping and then Christine took advantage of our unplanned stay to use the washing and drying machines. The day apart from the odd jobs has been restful and we even took in a DVD this afternoon. Looking at the weather there is a High pressure area to the south west which will hopefully push north and give us a couple of days nicer conditions.

Monday 19 Sep 2011

Leaving Breskens at HW was not the ideal time, we should have left 1.5 hours before HW to avoid the rough seas caused by the current and wind-over-tide. Whilst we zoomed along at 7.5 to 8 knots the sea state was short and rough with the result that it was very wet on board! We pounded on for 3.5 hours before Christine insisted we enter Zeebrugge harbour. Once inside the safety of the harbour we found our way to the Royal Belgian Yacht Club marina and started to dry out our wet gear in the sunshine. It is quite an expensive marina but the facilities are fine and it has free WiFi.

Our new plan, as yet unmodified, is to set off from here no later than 09:15 tomorrow morning bound for Ostend. It is another day closer to neap tides and our timing is as recommended by the harbour master. The other, worthy, point to mention is that it is only 11.5 miles to Ostend from here.

Sunday 18 Sep 2011

Did it rain, the decks were cleaned like they had been scrubbed. We also had thunder and lightning but it didn't keep us awake! The rain continued up until about 10:30 before the sun poked through the clouds and it slowly brightened up. After a beer in the yacht club we decided to make for Breskens across the Westerschelde so we navigated the last of the canals through the remaining bridges, which seemed to take forever, into the last lock at Vlissengen. Remembered to deselect ATIS on the marine VHF now that the canals have been completed.

We got to Breskens marina at around 17:30 and walked the 'maze' of pontoons to find the harbour master, who happened to be in the clubhouse. Everyone was really nice and the harbour master pointed me in the direction of a comfortable berth near to the clubhouse. We moved the boat and Christine and I enjoyed a very good meal in the yacht club. We chatted with numerous people who were all very helpful and good company; a great evening.

Tomorrow we hope to catch the tide and get as far as Ostend. It'll be an early start!

Saturday 17 Sep 2011

After topping up the tank with fuel we set off from Willemstad at 09:00 with the usual wind on the nose at around 18 knots. We negotiated three sluices and made our objective of Veere at 18:00. The harbour master met us as we came into the picturesque harbour and ushered us into a convenient spot just near the yacht club, where we made ourselves fast and drank a well deserved G&T.

We had a very nice dinner at the yacht club, having been made very welcome by the staff and members that sat round the bar. The club was buzzing with people who had managed to moor up in time for pre-dinner drinks and dinner. Highly recommended place to visit and have a meal.

Veere is not a place to be missed and the little town is delightful. The marina fee is reasonable and includes the facilities and free WiFi. We may stay here if the weather is not ideal to make it to Ostend.

Friday 16 Sep 2011

09:00 and a gorgeous day, although a little crisp at this time. Harbour dues of £27.00 paid up for two nights which includes cost of showers and electricity, we intend to do a few jobs and nip into the 'walled' town for lunch.

Had a nice lunch in a restaurant on the town quay just next to the well stocked chandlery. I also managed to get my hands on the Zeeland charts book, published by ANWB. This covers the area we need from Willemstad to Vlissengen as well as the other waterways within the Zeeland region and the cost was £18.50. There is WiFi in the marina which is expensive at £1.50 for 15 minutes or alternatively, the cafe on the town quay provides WiFi for the price of a cup of coffee. There is a fuel barge with reasonably priced fuel at the entrance to the harbour.

Thursday 15 Sep 2011

At 00:45 channel 69 crackled into action and we were informed the convoy would proceed at 01:00 subject to the rail authorities OK. Thankfully, all went well at the start and 6 yachts set off together. It was a very efficient operation for the first five bridges then the radio squawked that the next bridge was stuck shut and they were working on a solution. We waited about half an hour before we again got under way, passed the yachts coming from the other end, and eventually passed through the last set of lock and bridges at about 04:30. We all decided to continue our journey as the weather was clear and no wind. The journey past Schipol airport was very pleasant with bright lights along the airport perimeter and by the time we got passed and across the Westeinderplassn a beautiful dawn and sunrise came up.

We continued our journey through Braassemer Meer, down through Gouw and on to Gouda, where we had planned to stop, but we were making very good progress and the weather was ideal for going on, so we did. At the southern end of Gouda we had to wait 2 hours for the railway bridges to open. it was frustrating to sit there on a waiting pontoon looking at the shopping area and a McDonald's across the canal and not be able to get easy access. The bridges eventually opened and we moved on, having bonded with our fellow travellers. The plan was to get to Alblasserdam railway bridge in time to get through and on to the next time critical bridge at Dordrecht. We arrived at our objective just a few minutes too late, due to a foul tide, and had to wait 2 hours for it to open - damnation. We came through the last obstacle, the railway bridge at Dordrecht with another yacht who had just missed it opening earlier, and by now with daylight fading fast but a favourable tide we headed for Willemstad. The latter part of our journey, along Hollandsdiep, was in darkness and with very heavy shipping traffic in both directions. It seemed ages until we spotted the Iso 8 second green buoy, where we turned sharp left into the safety of Willemstad marina, that was at 21:30 after a journey of 79 miles. My bed is calling!

Wednesday 14 Sep 2011

We waited from 07:30 until 09:00 for the bridge to open when along came a local yachtsman and we explained our position. He said that the bridgekeepers never answer radio calls and the only way to get any reaction was to sail right up to the bridge and hover in the entrance, which he then did and 'hey presto' it opened. and we made our way back to the centre of Amsterdam.

The only option was for us to take the overnight convoy through the city which was planned to leave at 01:00 tomorrow. Ah well! A day of rest and sightseeing! The people at WesterKanalSluice office were very nice and allowed us to moor just outside their office until we had done some shopping at the local supermarket. Having done our jobs we thanked the team in the office and offered to pay any fee. No fee payable said the lady it is now free which includes the overnight route. Happy, we went through the bridge and moored just down from the railway bridge that would open at 01:00 tomorrow. For the rest of the day we just chilled out and relaxed with just a couple of hours shuteye.

The alarm went off at 23:00 so we had a hot snackette and readied ourselves for the night run.

Tuesday 13 Sep 2011

Still windy but not enough to prevent us from moving on to the Haarlem route via the Zijkkanaal. The journey along the 14 kilometres of the North Sea Canal was quite pleasant with ships of all sizes going to and fro and even though the wind was around 20 knots it felt relatively calm after the day previous. when we got to the Buitenhuizen bridge we got no answer on the radio and waited for an hour with another boat in the hope that the bridge would open - well it did, when a local yachtsman came along and approached the bridge it opened and we went through. Now the next bridge, Rijksweg, was not due to open until between 12:00 and 13:00 so we waited and waited with another boat. No one answered the radio or telephone calls and 12:00 came and went and we now had 2 red lights! back at Ymond marina some kind local called a number and informed us that the bridge was unserviceable and may open at 19:30, the next scheduled opening time - well it didn't and we turned to go back through the first bridge which also didn't open and we got no answer to our calls. We just had to stay put on a waiting pontoon with no walkway ashore.

We were just a LITTLE frustrated!

Monday 12 Sep 2011

Today we took the option to stay in Amsterdam as it is raining and very windy. The good news of the day is that P&O ferries allow pets to be carried by foot passengers from Calais to Dover for £15.00. Google came to our aid and we found a local pet shop that had a cage suitable for transporting Ben on the cross channel ferry which also has the benefit of flat packing. We took the bus which picked us up just outside the marina and dropped us at the shopping mall where the pet shop was located, all very convenient.

The wind increased over the day to a constant 37 knots with our highest recorded gust of 45 knots - glad we are in Sixhaven. The rain didn't last long and the sun has been shining since about 09:30, and it is now 18:45. Christine is currently doing a marathon Skype session to family and friends whilst Ben patiently waits for his supper. The internet connection here is brilliant as we are only 25 metres from the harbourmasters office and WiFi antenna, oh, and it's free.

The current forecast for tomorrow is for weather suitable for us to move on so that's the plan to head for Harlem and maybe beyond. And now it's G&T time just before dinner.

Sunday 11 Sep 2011

We managed to get away at 10:30, through the lock and into the Markermeer. The depth is no more than 4 meters which meant that the 18 knot wind caused short, boat stopping, waves. After a fairly uncomfortable journey in winds of up to 24 knots, on the nose, we eventually came through the lifting bridge and lock into the river Ij and then into Sixhaven marina at about 17:30. Luckily we avoided the squalls that passed either side of us on route.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is probably not ideal for moving on, even though we have the shelter of the canals, so we may just stay here until Tuesday and then head for Harlem.

Saturday 10 Sep 2011

A quiet night in and a good sleep followed by an early rise and visit to a bank. We said our farewells to our team of intrepid sailors on the next boat, all in recovery mode, and left harbour through the small lock at 09:30. Crossing the Ijsselmeer was a doddle with just 8 knots of wind on our port beam and a calm sea. We just ticked off the buoys as we crossed and we were in Enkhausen, Buitenhaven marina after picking up diesel at Compagnies Haven marina at 12:30. Being Saturday it is quite busy and already (16:15) it is 3-4 out with boats. The harbour master (mistress) put us in the only spot where we can get out and be alongside which is superb, thanks to our dog, Ben.

Christine decided it was time for a washing machine afternoon here so we have taken advantage and had a bite to eat ashore near to the washeteria. We also met a Dutchman who had been an exchange officer at RNAS Portland - small world!

The temperature is about 24 degrees Celsius and the sun is shining, hopefully, it will continue throughout the coming days.

Friday 9 Sep 2011

Up at 07:00 and on our way at 09:00 through the first bridge. We managed the whole journey without a drop of rain falling and did not wait at any bridge for more than ten minutes. Once we got to Lemmer, through the town bridge, it was obvious that some sort of shindig was happening with all the flags hoisted and Dutch canal barges of all shapes and sizes, but old, that were alongside. Quite different to yesterday's rock concert, we could hear the hoompapa of a band playing on one of the larger boats. We couldn't get alongside on the main drag but the harbour master got us in just the other side of the second bridge by Cafe Centrum (with WiFi). It is just lovely to be here, sharing the party atmosphere with the crowds. We are moored just outside a super cafe right dead centre of town.

We sat having coffee and met a couple who live in Germany and the lady was brought up in Chester in the UK, a very pleasant afternoon was had by all. Our next door neighbours ( boat, that is! ) is half a dozen blokes having a boys weekend on quite a large motor vessel. They are certainly enjoying themselves at this moment!

It is 19:30 and the weather has closed in with fine drizzle so our supper outside has been curtailed, the wine glasses are re-charged and we are now inside sorting out what DVD to watch.

Thursday 8 Sep 2011

This is the day of more rain than we have had since the 5 May, and it's only 13:15! We managed to get away at 09:00, through the first of 7 bridges. Wind on the nose, of course, and rain - just constant rain all the way. We are moored along the town embankment which has electricity, but as yet we haven't found the harbourmaster or facilities. I bet we see him when he wants our money! When, if, it stops raining we intend to have a look round town from about 14:00 onwards. Christine insisted we moor just this side of the last bridge before the town, just 150 metres down river, because the area is emerald green grass with trees and it is a quieter part of town.

We managed to visit the city centre which was very nice and we did get a superb coffee. The rain started again as we returned to the boat down the grassy embankment, now quite muddy and slippery; not to worry this is at least quiet. At 17:00 we were a little surprised to hear very big rock bands doing their thing in readiness for some event! As the evening went on the thump, thud, thud, boom of the deep base and the wailing of the electronic music got louder and was helped along by about 50,000 young people 'chanting' and being motivated further by some 'demon' presenter. The boat vibrated with the noise and even our 'gun firing' DVD didn't drown out the deafening sound. At 10-o-clock the music ended only to be followed by large numbers of the congregation ending their revelry on the footpath some 25 metres away. We were actually pleased when the rain came, in buckets, and peace was returned.

Tomorrow we hope to be in shape to pass the first of 15 bridges, no locks, before entering Lemmer, one of my favourite towns.

Wednesday 7 Sep 2011

My oh my did it rain and blow last night. This morning was a clear if not quite windy morning with the wind predicted to be under 20 knots until 14:00, then increasing to a possible F7. We set off at 09:00 to cross the bottom end of open water in the Lauwersmeer and re-enter the canal system proper at the end of the DokkumerDjip. Crossing Lauwersmeer was exciting when the wind picked up to 34 knots and we had very short steep waves which stopped the boat and we turned through 180 degrees not once but twice. We also experienced driving rain but the whole drama only lasted 40 minutes, thank goodness. Once into the canal system we made reasonable way against the headwind and the only drawback was missing the opening of the last bridge before Dokkum - it closed for one hour for lunch! We eventually arrived alongside the canal, in the centre of town at 13:10.

Tomorrow we hope to move on at 09:00 through the first bridge toward our next destination Leeuwarden, about twenty miles on.

Tuesday 6 Sep 2011

After talking to other Dutch yachtsmen we all decided that today's weather would be acceptable for making the journey to Zoutkamp, arriving before 14:00 when the weather is expected to worsen. The journey here means passing through a large number of bridges and a lock but we teamed up with four other boats and got the harbourmaster to check what was the best time for the lock 'armada' to pass through. 9-o-clock and we set off passing through all locks without an hitch. By 10-o-clock the 20 knot wind had risen to 30 knots and trying to keep steerage was something of a test at the almost stop speeds. Once into the countryside the wind picked up to 34 knots and all five boats had to battle to maintain a good speed. Fortunately, the rain held off until we were tucked into our mooring at Hunzegat marina. As predicted the wind has continued to increase from 14:00 and the rain is falling. Up to midnight the wind reached 45 knots and did it rain!

The marina has WiFi, at a price, £1.50 for fifteen minutes! The other facilities are reasonable and town is just a ten minute walk away. I would definitely come here again.

Monday 5 Sep 2011

Topped up the diesel at 08:30 and entered the lock at 09:05. The wind picked up to 20 knots but this had little effect on us as we were safely in the canal. Most of the bridges along the way just required a VHF call on 69 but those on entering Groningen were on the hour or as stated in the route guide. We came on route with two couples we had first met in Cuxhaven and we are now moored in the same marina. The canal was busy with a barge passing us about every ten minutes, each giving us a wave (Get the pun?).

This afternoon we intend to visit the city and maybe tomorrow, depending on weather we will take breakfast in IKEA which is nearby. The predicted weather from now until Thursday is for very windy and wet weather, but a good day for crossing the Ijsselmeer looks like being Saturday/Sunday.

The Oosterhaven marina is actually box moorings on the canal side and is near to the town centre. It has WiFi, £2.00 per day, which is good value for money. The facilities are very smart and the washing and drying machines look pristine. Payment is made at the Chandlery, 20 metres away, which is quite well stocked with boat bits and lots of clothing.

Sunday 4 Sep 2011

Ah! A lie in this morning instead of having to get up at the crack of dawn to get underway in tune with the tide. The harbour master advised that we could take the inshore passage if we left four hours before HW Nordeney (HW = 16:48 ECT). We had a leisurely morning and left harbour at 12:45. The sun was shining and there was little or no wind except our own. We followed the many buoys until we came to quite a lot of 'withy's' marking our way. It seemed strange to see withy's marking shallow water out of sight of land, but I suppose that's the Waddenzee.

We arrived at Delfzijl, Handels marina, at 19:00 and did not go through the lock because the bridges on the other side stop for the day at 19:30. The marina has power and WiFi and the shower facilities etc look very nice.

Once through the lock we are into canals until Vlissengen, apart from crossing two man made inland seas.

Saturday 3 Sep 2011

Up at the 04:00 in the dark and scoffing down a quick light breakfast we prepared ourselves for our departure. At 04:45 we shook our neighbours who weren't in the slightest unhappy. We worked out the moves and with little noise we extricated ourselves from the trot. With no moon and hardly a breath of wind we put the main sail up in the shelter of the outer harbour and then made our way out into the main channel. Passage was really easy with excellent leading lights that could be seen for a couple of miles out. We motor sailed roughly south to avoid the very busy shipping lanes in the reduced visibility of about a mile and then turned south west along the islands to pick up the fairway buoy for Nordeney. It seemed the line of buoys from the fairway buoy had been moved since our last visit looking at our old track. We eventually arrived in the marina at 13:30 and made ourselves comfortable before leaping ashore for a couple of beers.

Tonight we are dining out at the marina restaurant, where we ate last time. The staff remembered us or maybe it was Ben, but we were greeted like long lost friends. We are back from supper which was a delight, just as before.

We have been encouraged, by the harbour master, to try the short route to Delfzijl tomorrow. The trick is to leave Nordeney two hours before high water making the journey six to eight hours long.

Friday 2 Sep 2011

We've had a cracking day, achieving even more than we set out to do. up at 04:00 and ready to go through the bridge at 05:00 and all went to plan. Once into the Elbe at fairly slack water we got underway, following the red cans out. There were a lot of ships going both ways and I counted ten at one point going up river. The tide soon started to ebb and before we new it we were surging along at 8 Knots just as the sun peeped above the horizon and it has been shining ever since. The time it took us to get to Helgoland was quite a bit faster than planned and we were in the harbour by 10:20. Initially, the boats were singled up but before lunch the place was three deep. Our venture ashore started at 11:30 and we were soon at the top of the hill thanks to a convenient lift at the end of the high street. We enjoyed the absolutely excellent views in the crystal clear day with the sun shining down before returning to the high street to winkle out the duty free stores.

Christine was adamant about getting the latest weather forecast and the harbour doesn't have WiFi so we found the Helgoland Internet Tea shop ( www.helgolaender-treibgut.de )! The place was run by a very nice lady who specialised in serving all flavours of tea and provided WiFi. Weather forecast sorted we got our duty free stores and returned to the boat to find two boats berthed outside of us. Unfortunately, the tides require us to leave here at 05:00 to get to Nordeney, so we arranged to turn the boats around and get on the outside. We are going to have yet another early night and get up at 04:00. Crossing the shipping lanes (TSS) needs to be done correctly otherwise quite heavy fines are incurred by the authorities so we will try to plan to avoid any issues. We may have wind on the nose tomorrow but with only light winds forecast we hope our journey will be a reasonable one.

It's now 23:00 and after letting half a dozen boats that have recently arrived know that we are leaving at 05:00 we unfortunately have four boats outside of us and it is similar along the whole harbour. Our departure could be a tough nut to crack!

Thursday 1 Sep 2011

Today was a rest day and planning for our tidal re-entry into the North sea and trip to Helgoland. With the weather being as unsettled as it is we are making alternative plans to head generally west. We made what has become an infrequent visit to the 'Shackle Chapel' (chandlers) to just look at stuff. There are not one but two chandlers, each with a good stock of everything a sailing boat might need. We also found a Lidl supermarket not more than five minutes away and a splendid coffee shop.

Tonight is a night out at the marina restaurant and then an early night to ready ourselves for an early 05:00 start. We're fuelled up, bridge opening confirmed and charts sorted - Helgoland stand by, here we come! (Weather permitting).

The marina restaurant 'The Wal' was just as predicted and was an excellent choice. Luckily we went early, at 18:30, because by 19:00 it was full with local folk. It is now 21:45 and Christine has already turned in, the alarm is set for the unearthly hour of 04:00 and I am unwinding by watching a, Bruce Willis, DVD. I still have to take a look at the latest weather.

Wednesday 31 Aug 2011

Up at the crack of 06:30 we got ourselves underway at 08:00 bound for Brunsbuttel and then Cuxhaven. Our wish-list item of going to Helgoland via the Eider was not a good idea because of the tides at Tonning and the unsettled weather. The journey down the Kiel canal was uneventful and we did have a few showers on route. Once at the lock I called the lock keeper who said to just follow a motor yacht in called 'Big Fish'. he opened the gates and we were in within ten minutes of our call - very nice. Twenty minutes later we entered the Elbe with about 20 minutes of flood tide to fight to go toward Cuxhaven. The journey to Cuxhaven got a little bouncy has the ebb tide picked up against an 18 knot wind and passing the American harbour at 9 knots on tick-over was a little unnerving, with large standing waves to boot. At the next 'opening', the entrance to the City marina I positioned the boat to make the turn, almost back on ourselves, under full engine power to make our entry into the outer basin. Once inside the basin it was calm and we could rig the boat for coming alongside comfortably. I gave a call to the 'cuxhaven lock' to enter the inner harbour and hey presto the bridge opened, it was now 20:20. This marina is well protected from all winds and passing ships wash. The marina is in the centre of town and very close to the two superb chandlers. Thomas, the harbourmaster is really helpful, and the marina facilities are clean. Fuel is also, conveniently, available during office hours, preferably near to high water.

The marina restaurant 'The Wal' provided us with the card we needed to access the facilities and obtain electricity. The cost for our boat was £12.00 per night, excluding electricity and showers.

Tuesday 30 Aug 2011

Yesterday we chilled out and apart from exploring the town, which is very pretty, just relaxed. The weather was blustery and with frequent heavy showers of rain throughout the day and night with today being a little better with the showers being less frequent but still blustery. One of our difficulties in the Baltic, once our supply of Typhoo had run out, was finding English tea to suit our palette; I just do not like scented tea! Well! Aldi sell tea that is acceptable and so today we have trekked across town to the Aldi store and topped up our tea supplies. We have detected free WiFi, 'RONDO_FREE_WIFI, here which is across the harbour, so I am glad we have the dish antenna. We also found out today that the marina provide free cycles which would have been very useful to cross town.

I took the opportunity to change the engine oil and generally give around the engine a clean. The bilges have been checked and the water topped up ready to move on. we were planning to go down the pretty route of the river Eider and out into the North sea through the Eider Dam but on looking at the weather forecasts for the next week and checking out the tide, it is not ideal for us to make the journey via the Eider. We now intend to make for the Elbe via Brunsbuttel and then spend a night in the town marina at Coxhaven, or failing that, in the American marina. The latter is further away from town but they kindly provide free bicycles. Hopefully, Friday's weather will be suitable to make for Helgoland - lets hope.

The facilities here are good and Christine gave the showers a special mention as being hot and good value for money with more than enough room. There is diesel and electricity with water available if you have your own hose.

Tomorrow we hope to be away early for the 36 mile journey to the Elbe and then a further 16 miles or so to Coxhaven. From the number of Dutch flagged boats about, it looks like it could be busy going through the Brunsbuttel lock.

Sunday 28 Aug 2011

Our last day in the Baltic and, did it rain overnight, wow! This morning it is much brighter but the wind has picked up and we are pleased that we made the decision to get to Kiel yesterday. Setting off down the eastern side of Kieler Fiorde, to avoid the Traffic Separation Scheme that runs down the middle, we eventually crossed at right angles to get to the Holtenau lock just as it opened. I paid the reduced fee of £7.00 because we are going down the Eider and got back to the boat as the lock gates began to open at the canal end.

Having left Laboe at 09:45 we had a good journey, albeit with wind on the nose, to arrive at Rendesburg at 14:45. First things first - booked a table at the lovely restaurant! We seem to be very lucky with our timings because this is the towns 'Autumn Festival', with lots going on. There are very large crowds everywhere, all thoroughly enjoying themselves, with excellent music to suit all tastes and a superb helicopter flying display that looked as if it was going to clip the tops off the yachts. Having taken a walk through town it was quite remarkable to see stages on every corner, I counted nine, with superb bands of all types playing. The fairground rides and sideshows were prolific with everyone enjoying the superb atmosphere - glad we came when we did.

After a superb dinner at the 'Riverside' restaurant we waggled back the 50 metres or so to the boat feeling nicely full and content. The bands played on the quayside and we could hear the chatter of people passing by as we sat and had a nightcap. At 10:00 sharp the music stopped and the boats that had been sailing back and forth decorated with coloured lights had returned to their moorings; When BOOM! Flash! bang, wallop - the fireworks commenced just on the other side of the harbour. It was a magnificent display which lasted a good twenty minutes or so. We could hear the crowds cheer as each mortar, thunderously fired, was followed seconds later by spectacular bursts of colour.

I've booked two days here for the princely sum of £26.00 with electricity and access to all facilities. WiFi is available too, but at £5.00 for one hour, it is cheaper to use my alternative 'Abroadband.com'.

Saturday 27 Aug 2011

The day has started damp with the rain stopping just before 08:00. There is currently little wind from the west but it is expected to increase in strength, up to 18 knots, as the day goes on. We are going to head off towards the Schlei estuary which is about twenty miles towards Kiel, and if conditions are favourable we will continue to Laboe, just inside the Kiel Fjiord on the east side. There is a large commemorative area to the German Navy there.

Conditions were favourable so we arrived at Laboe, Baltic Bay Marina, at 15:00. The day is quite gloomy and we did have wind of about 18-22 knots on the beam, with a fairly smooth sea. The U-Boat Marine Memorial is huge with a submarine at its foot, very impressive.

There is a chandlery here which is sparsely stocked with engine necessities and a few odds and sods of boat things. The facilities are very good.

Friday 26 Aug 2011

We have had a very restful day today and apart from moving the boat from a yacht club mooring to the promenade pontoon we have done very little. Wifi is excellent in our new position and we are close to the excellent showers. The place is very good value for money at £14.00 per night. The marina is popular and was full by 16:30; my advice to anyone coming here is call the harbourmaster in advance to book a place.

What a thunderstorm we had tonight it lasted for more than two hours and the lightening flashes were almost continuous. Most of the public here just sat under the large brollies continuing with their supper in the humid evening 'firework' display. The boat vibrated at one point with the thunder clap. Ben, our dog, didn't blink an eye; he was so tired after running around with our friends dog Jepp all day yesterday.

Thursday 25 Aug 2011

Leaving our mooring at 1000 we motored about a mile to pick up fuel at one of the numerous marinas around Flensburg. Fuelled up, we set off for Lanballigou to see our friends. We arrived at the very nice marina and moored in one of the yacht club berths that had been arranged for us. After a superb lunch with our friends at there home we visited Glocksburg Castle together taking in the rich history and a very well put together exhibition of associated paintings, tapestries and explanations of European royalty from the eleventh century to the present day.

Tonight we have had a light supper on board and are now relaxing watching an English program on the local German TV channel. The weather forecast for tomorrow is not ideal for moving on rounding the headland. I will take a look at the forecast again later and we will then make a decision on whether to move on or not. Saturday's forecast is a better day for us to go as the wind is predicted to go round to the west.

Wednesday 24 Aug 2011

Woke up with a slight headache this morning after the party last night. We had a good walk round Flensburg today and had a really good lunch in the Noordsea fish restaurant in town, it really was worth a mention here, as good food at a reasonable price.

Tonight we took on our neighbours at boules/petonque just before enjoying sundowners on their boat. I've retuned the TV to German TV and we are watching a movie we haven't seen before, in English with German subtitles.

Tomorrow we are again heading south for Kiel but, subject to weather, have not decided on just where our next stop will be. I need to get diesel before going anywhere!

Tuesday 23 Aug 2011

We arrived at Flensburg at 13:00 to see ourselves on a huge TV screen as we entered the marina in the centre of town. There is a TV show being produced that goes out over Germany on Sunday so, who knows we could be 'famous' for a second or two. Later on walking back from the harbour office I asked what the schedule was to be tonight and the producer gave me two passes to sit in on the show - what a treat that is. The town is quite large and this afternoon I managed to walk along the main pedestrian way past all the shops and shopping precincts. Who knows what tonight will bring?!

What a night! We were made very welcome to the party and were introduced to every member of the show. We have just returned to the boat after enjoying the hospitality of the producers of the show at their post venue party. A great day and evening to remember.

We have decided to stay here tomorrow to do some sightseeing and take in some of the places that have been recommended by the people we have met.

Monday 22 Aug 2011

We awoke at 07:00 to a fresh sunny morning after the rain of last night; the wind is F3 and it looks like it might be favourable for us! Our journey is quite short to Sonderborg. setting off at 10:45 we arrived at the lifting bridge in Sonderborg at 13:00 when it stated it would open, however, the bridge masters watch must have been 10 minutes slow! We eventually moored up at 13:30 in the marina. Our helpful sailor was Jonty Howard who had been an influence to us to visit the Baltic last year. We've just had lunch and I reckon a visit to the city is called for very soon. I hear that there is a chandlery just the other side of the bridge.

Didn't make it to the chandlery but did have drinks on a converted fishing boat which had been commissioned by Alistair McLean; very nice too! Then a real treat for us was to have dinner with English friends. Tummies full we returned to our boat for a very good nights sleep.

Tomorrow we are setting off for Flensburgh in Germany so I had better reach out the courtesy flag. The question was if we are going along a river which is the border, when should one put up the new courtesy flag? Answer: When the mobile phone beeps to welcome you to the new country.

Sunday 21 Aug 2011

Today's sailing started, for us, at 09:45 when we left orosund in 12 knots of wind from just east of south. There was a current of about 1.5 knots through the narrows which produced a choppy, wind over tide sea. Once clear of the narrows and into deeper water the sea calmed a little and we set our course for Als Fjord and Dyvig which is a small creek (Fjord) to the east of Alsen Sund. We arrived at the extremely nice marina of Dyvig, on the north side of the creek, adjacent to an hotel, at 13:00, quickly settled in and then had lunch on board.

The hotel kindly let me have details of their WiFi login, so that we can get the weather forecast etc. However, I did notice the excellent restaurant they had. At DKR 130.00 per night this is pretty much on the mark. The weather here is warm and sheltered from any wind and the only noise is from some children swimming off a large plastic blow-up diving platform some 100 metres away - lots of giggling and splashing going on.

Just as we were preparing our six-o-clock G&T the heavens opened and for 20 minutes we had a downpour of warm rain which also cooled the heat of the afternoon. Christine was across the esplanade taking a shower so donning our umbrella I collected her and by chance passed close to the hotel. We couldn't resist a quick peak at the menu and having had a translation decided to take dinner, in posh frock's, in the Brasserie. I'll report later on the meal, but all signs so far are good.

Well! That meal was excellent and the ambience of the place matched the meal. We have returned to Inadee to finish watching an Angelina Jolie movie with a hot cup of chocolate and the tuck ourselves up for the night. Outside we can hear thunder in the distance and see the occasional flash of lightening. The rain that comes and goes is the sort with the big drops that makes quite a thud on the coach roof. Let's hope that tomorrow brings drier times.

Saturday 20 Aug 2011

Left tel-Ka marina at 10:15 and diverted from a direct route to look at Middelfart's main marina on the other side of the peninsula. There were a lot of yachts there so we were very happy we chose Tel-Ka. Initially there was a knot and half current with us which then slowly came round to our starboard stern quarter before reducing to nothing. The forecast was initially correct but then we heard a strong wind warning on the radio after we had experienced 23 knots 10 degrees to starboard of us. The sea became choppy but, because we were close inshore, the waves didn't pick up too much. We arrived here at Orosund at 14:00 to a popular marina with quite a number of sheds for overwintering boats. The harbour masters office is just a short walk away from our mooring and when I arrived I found a machine for booking in to the marina. Unfortunately, none of the three credit cards I carry worked and the harbour master was not in his office until 18:00 if at all. We had got rid of most of our Danish Kronor as we go into Germany tomorrow, anyway, we managed to rustle together the DKR 110.00 for the marina fee.

Orosund is quite a rural venue with countryside just beyond the marina area. There is an hotel and half a dozen houses together with a marina housed Indian restaurant. Although the boarding point for an inter island ferry there is no bank or ATM to get money from. The showers are token driven as is the washing and drying machines but I couldn't find anywhere to get my hands on even one token for a shower.

Tomorrow I reckon we will head for Sonderborg which means two bridges to negotiate, one of which needs to be opened for us. Fortunately, I have just found out that the bridge is operational on Sundays.

Friday 19 August 2011

We have just returned to the boat for lunch after 'moseying' around the town for an hour this morning. Quite a pleasurable experience with cobbled streets and architecture that appears to be specific to this area. Many of the buildings are 1600's and particularly well preserved. We had a look at the old town quay marina which was much more exposed to passing ships wash and the weather from anywhere west of north. We also found out why this marina is not advertised or listed anywhere; it's a private marina that accepts visitors if they find it. They said that it was nearly always full.

Just as forecast, by Windfinder, the rain started at 05:00 and did it rain! 08:00 and the rain ceased leaving just clouds and the odd peak of sunshine. At the moment, 12:30, there is little wind but it is forecast to pick up to over 25 knots later this afternoon.

Thursday 18 Aug 2011

We had a good trip here today to Middelfart, although most of it was motor sailing. We were recommended to moor at Tel-Ka, a very small marina right in the town centre, which was excellent advice. The other marina would have meant a long walk to town. Everyone so far as been very friendly and helpful and we are next to a building which houses the Tourist Office, Library (Internet cafe and free WiFi), superb restaurant just feet away and a cinema showing films in English. Oh! and there are lots of green bits for Ben and the supermarket and other important places are no more than 200 metres away. Tonight rain is forecast which will be replaced by strong winds tomorrow - so it looks like a day in harbour yet again. And now it is time to ready ourselves for our customary G&T as the sun crosses the yardarm.

Wednesday 17 Aug 2011

Another restful day today enjoying the protection of Juelsminde marina in the southerly wind which has been variable in strength from 10-20 knots. I ordered a sun parasol from the chandler yesterday which I impatiently waited for its delivery today at 14:00. We had an odd shower of rain this morning but fortunately this afternoon has been bathed in sunshine. The festival has started, rather slower than I expected, but the beer tent is in full swing and the first act is playing oldies. Christine and I nipped across and had a wine before returning to our boat for dinner. As promised the new sun gizmo arrived at 14:00 and I could hardly wait to put it up. Unfortunately, it was a little too windy so we will have to wait for more suitable conditions.

It was a good call to stay in harbour today; the wind would have been on the nose all the way. We have met up with another yacht from the UK with whom we met earlier at Trolsa, the other side of Sweden. They fly the White Ensign and are friends of other members of Hornet Sailing Club that we know. It's a small world! Our Skype has been busy with both subscriber calling and using the call phone function, and I have to say it has made communicating so easy, when I think back to using Coast Radio Stations! Tonight the wind has dropped and we sat in the cockpit sipping our G&T plus ice and slice with nibbles, whilst Ben hovered around us in hope.

I am very impressed by the sailing club which is also includes rowing, windsurfing and canoeing. It was interesting that the people who went out rowing were all over sixty with one lady at 86 years old. The bosun said that the EU funding had been excellent and everyone here is delighted with the investment.

We intend to set off from here at about 10:00 when conditions are favourable - I hope.

Tuesday 16 Aug 2011

Ah! a restful day with a little sightseeing and a visit to the local chandler and supermarket for victuals. The marina is readying itself for tomorrows party which we will participate in! The party or festival is an annual event but this year is special because it marks the opening of the new marina, in which we are moored. The internet connection is excellent so far and we have taken advantage of it to call our friends in Greece as well as family in the UK and France. This afternoon we looked at just where we might go next and afterwards using some new charts of the area from here to Kiel. It looks like we will journey to the yacht marina at MiddelFart on Thursday which is a mere 26 miles away.

The weather today started with sunshine and no wind to speak of, but as the day as gone on it has become cloudy and breezy with a short 15 minutes worth of light rain. The G&T's have now long been drunk and Christine is preparing supper while I do this with Ben sitting behind me.

Monday 15 Aug 2011

Today promised to be a calmer day than yesterday and the morning looked good. With only a 20 mile 'cruise' we decided to visit the local village and church, which doubles as a lighthouse. Exploring finished, we set off out of the harbour to find that the wind had increased to 16-18 knots and the sea state was uncomfortable; so we returned to port. After lunch we checked 'over the wall' to see the sea state and decided to make our way as the forecast, which we double checked, stated it would be less than 8 m/sec. About one and a half hours out the wind started to increase and we were negotiating a narrow channel so we continued wind on the nose. The sea state also got worse and we were making just under 3 knots for a time until we could change course and get some drive from the sails. We eventually arrived tired but not wet at 19:30.

Juelsminde has 3 marinas each with many yachts moored. We seem to be the only English boat amongst many German, Swedish and of course Danish boats. The facilities here are good and include free WiFi. There is a good beach which Ben was quick to test out and I noticed one or two restaurants and cafes which we can take a closer look at tomorrow. I think we will be staying over tomorrow as a 'rest' day and for a mooch about. I reckon there just has to be a chandlery here!

Sunday 14 Aug 2011

Thank goodness the seagulls weren't sitting in the car park! We managed to refuel and leave harbour at 10:45 bound for the island of Tuno. The wind was blowing a mere 15 knots and the sea state was moderate, not exactly smooth! We made good time over the 39 mile trip arriving at Tuno marina in pouring rain at 17:30. The marina is very basic but has electricity, showers, diesel, and PAYG WiFi, as well as other good facilities nearby. The place is without pomp and a walk to the end of the pontoon reaches a rural green grass area and sandy beach. BBQ areas and benches are plentiful and the facilities are conveniently sited within 50 metres. The store is some 400 metres away and opens at 08:00 with fresh bread.

Now, if it would just stop raining or ease down a little we could explore the island with our 'sniffer' Ben, who has already been ashore alone for a quick pee. We've paid our marina fee and got connected to the electricity so that the induction hob can do its magic and, with Christine's help, rustle up a gourmet hot meal. The evenings entertainment looks like being 'Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom', then local TV is showing a James Bond movie.

Tomorrow the wind is forecast to back from the southeast to a westerly, which should give us a smoother sea state so another job for tonight is to consider what next!

Saturday 13 Aug 2011

We slept well last night, including Ben! This morning refreshed, we had a leisurely breakfast and morning before getting the bus times into town. The 11:40 bus actually left at 11:35 so we were lucky to get it. The small town is very nice and there were some young, budding, rhythm 'n blues musicians strumming their stuff in the town centre which we stopped to listen to for quite some time - they were excellent! Having wandered about a bit and looked into all the many dress shops we had a nice lunch and then sat in the sun for an hour to wait for our 14:30 bus back to the boat. Well a bus arrived but when we got on it the driver said it wasn't going our way, the last bus was at 12:00; the bus we had gone in on! Drat! We decided a taxi was the only answer and some 40 minutes later we managed to get one which dropped us off at the local Aquarium Centre.

The Aquarium Centre just had to be visited and it was well worth the money. Excellent displays of the many fish to be found in these waters and the rest of the world. We were there until almost five-o-clock before walking back about 150 metres to the boat and a cup of tea before 'yard arm' time. Christine has just come back from taking Ben for a walk and talking with other yachties about the weather! Now we don't know if the waves will be be too much to go tomorrow so I will have to have a pretty cast iron case to make if we are to leave here; time will tell! Christine tells me that if the seagulls are sitting in the car park then we are not going anywhere! Ah! my G&T has just been served by my best girl!

Friday 12 Aug 2011

Left Hals at the eastern entrance to the Limfjorden bound south easterly for Gren� some 48 nautical miles away across the �lborg Bugt. The wind started at about 14 knots but half an hour out it picked up to between 16 and 18 knots, making the sea a little lumpy for sailing 40 odd miles or so. After a long day we arrived in Gren� at 17:00 and were pleasantly surprised by the marina. Just a bit weary, we decided to treat ourselves to a spare rib carry out from the marina restaurant. Wow! what a lot we got for our money which included chips and a good salad. Tummy's full, we had an early night.

The marina has lots of little shops, cafes and a restaurant that serves all you can eat for just a few Kronor; anyway the place was chocka full when I went to collect our spare ribs carry out. There is a golden sand beach which Ben just loves to run around. There is also a sea life centre which we hope to visit tomorrow after taking the bus to town. Oh! and the WiFi is free.

Thursday 11 Aug 2011

The day started early at 06:30 and we were ready to move at 07:15 with very little wind and just grey clouds around us. We set off in the hope of improvements in conditions but sad to say it stayed grey and a little drizzly at times, but no high winds, those are predicted for Friday! We took stock and decided to make for Hals, another 20 miles or so further in the hope of putting ourselves in a better place for shelter and for getting round the corner towards Lille Belt. Our journey was uneventful and the sea was flat calm, almost mirror like. My perception of Denmark was somewhat shattered as I perceived it as hilly and rocky, but no it is fairly flat with fine sandy beaches. The journey down the coast needs a little care because it is very shallow well out to sea and there is not a lot to see along the flat coastline.

We arrived in Hals at about 13:30 and being a tad cold decided on Ikea type meatballs for lunch - ah! my favourites. This afternoon it has started to rain quite heavily so no sightseeing just yet. The harbour fees are paid (DKR 130.00) and we have found the local store to visit later. The harbourmaster informs us that tonight there is live folk music on above the harbour office so we have the option to go or stay on board and listen from here, just 20 metres away. Unfortunately, there is no WiFi here and we will have to find another way to get the latest local weather forecast.

It is now almost midnight and we have just returned to the boat after a tremendously enjoyable evening as guests of Hals Baadelaug (Boat Club). We were entertained by a folk group called 'The Kojlonders - Livibasaren' who did a great job. It is the first time that I have heard Irish songs sung in Danish with an Irish accent! The musicians were very professional, and I haven't heard an accordion played so well for as long as I can remember. We were really made welcome by everyone. What a nice memorable evening. We also found out that we can get the forecast via a pc screen showing the local weather.

Wednesday 10 Aug 2011

What a howler of a night! The wind picked up to blow from the west at about 30 knots constant for most of the night and morning and it is just reducing in strength to about 20 knots now, at 19:00. Luckily for us the day was warm and sunny so we took the free bus to visit the 'capital' town of Byrum. It had a library, half a dozen small shops and three or four cafe/restaurants. We chose our place to eat and had a traditional Danish fish lunch which was very good. With lunch over we again caught the bus to return to the boat to weather the wind! Vestero marina faces north but the westerly wind blows over the harbour wall, so whilst we are sheltered from the rough sea we seem quite exposed to the wind. The facilities are very nice, if not more expensive than we have been used to of late with showers costing DKR 10.00 and marina fees of DKR 185.00, that's just under £22.00. There is a fine sandy beach nearby that runs parallel to the main street on which is the bakery, post office and quite a well stocked supermarket. All in all Vestero gets our thumbs up if it wasn't for the wind.

Tomorrow the weather forecast (courtesy www.dmi.dk) is for <6 m/s or 12 knots of wind from either northwest or north so we shall hope to make a move earlyish in the morning toward the Danish mainland and the small port of Oso. Our mooring here is bows to the quay and two stern lines and we are lying beam to the wind which is making us rock and roll somewhat. And now with all lines checked and tightened it's time to batten down the hatches, watch a movie and then be rocked, hopefully gently, to sleep.

Tuesday 9 Aug 2011

It is now 16:00 and we have come across to Denmark from Sweden having got up early this morning, topped up the fuel and then headed for here starting at 07:45. The Kattegat was very busy with ships heading for the Baltic or North Sea. We were so lucky with the weather today as it was supposed to be windy until Friday with blustery rainy weather forecast. Although it started out a little chilly with a northerly wind, the sun came through about 10:00 and it is now just another glorious day. Vestero harbour is a nice haven and as soon as I get this uploaded we are going to explore a little. We haven't yet decided what next, so watch this space!

Monday 8 Aug 2011

After a stormy night of rain and very high winds with us tucked safely inside our boat in the well protected harbour the day slowly improved, the wind has dropped and the evening sun is shining. Christine, Ben and myself have 'poodled' around the place and had tea with friends on their boat this afternoon. hopefully the wind will be blowing from a favourable direction and just enough to enable us to sail tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'll top up with water and do a few necessary jobs ready to refuel early in the morning and go.

Unfortunately, the marina free WiFi has failed and not come on line again so our communications will have to wait.

Sunday 7 Aug 2011

Today it has been blowing a 'hooly' with 10 metres per second showing in 300mm high red neon outside the harbour masters office! We did manage to do some sightseeing around one side of the island, the side that looks over where we came into the entrance, but it was windy and scrabbling over the massive boulders was a bit beyond my old knees. I'll take a couple of extra strong pills before doing another trip.

We met up with our friends from Langballligo, on the German/Danish border, for afternoon coffee and then again for over the yardarm drinks before battening down our hatches against the very strong wind to come in the night.

Saturday 6 Aug 2011

Early this morning it was wet and dank in Gotenborg and looked as though it would be with us all day. However, as intrepid sailors we got fully booted and spurred with our foulies and set off on the short 8 miles or so journey to Donso. We battled against a 22 knot headwind out of Gotenborg and headed the two miles to our turning point south and the protection of the islands. Once we turned it was a smashing sail through quite beautiful scenery, totally different to the other archipelago's we had experienced. The emerald green grass comes down to the waters edge. Although initially windy, by the time we got to Donso it had calmed down somewhat and the clouds had cleared to leave an almost cloudless sky. As we turned into the marina it was like confronting a sea of boats and people all showing their enthusiasm for the party due to start at 14:00. Anders Kuhlin, the Donso Hamnkapten was there to greet us and make us feel very welcome to their day of festivities which we have thoroughly enjoyed so far and the night is yet young. The live music is playing and we are nicely placed about 50 metres away across the harbour from the stage. The free Wifi is really good and we have been busy calling family and a couple of our friends. Ben thinks he has found yet another doggy heaven and has sat on deck looking really happy about the goings on around us - he and Christine have just gone off for a constitutional whilst I do this.

I think that we may just stay here for a few days, subject to weather conditions, before making the 45 mile or so crossing of the Kattegat to Laso. Tomorrow we plan to walk around parts of the island to experience the delights of the little coves and scenery.

Friday 5 Aug 2011

This really is the first rainy day we have had since leaving the UK on 5 May and it has rained on and off all day. However, we did some sightseeing around Gotenborg and I visited the towns largest chandlery which was excellent, biggest since leaving the UK! It has all the buzz of a big city, if you like that sort of thing, and everyone here is friendly. We are conveniently moored next to the opera house but unfortunately there is nothing on in our timeframe.

Tomorrow we are on the move again to visit the island of Donso where we have been invited to join in the festivities that are taking place - it should be fun!!! The weather looks as though it could be unsettled over the next few days so Donso is ideal because it is a small step closer to our planned Trip to Laso and the small harbour of either Osterby in the east, or Vestero in the west. The thirty mile or so trip is across the Kattegatt so we would like a fairly smooth crossing without the wind being on the nose.

Thursday 4 Aug 2011

After a night of what appeared to be heavy rain (we were asleep!) we got up at 07:00 and were ready to move on by 08:30. We started in a convoy of four other boats from Norway and it became clear they 'needed' to be first! After the first lock they all steamed ahead at a good speed for the next bridge or lock and then waited until we arrived before the bridge opened. When we got to Trollhattan locks there were about ten other boats of different types already there waiting for 11:30 when the flashing sign stated the next lock would open. We all moored up fairly orderly and most crews went ashore to find how to pay or take photos of the old locks which have been retained. Anyway, at 10:50 someone's VHF announced that the boats could enter the lock and with that it was like a grand prix with everyone running around like headless chickens to get into the lock. Being one of the last we played the 'white man' and waited until those before us had moved on, which meant it was touch and go whether we would get into the lock this time round. There must have been 24 or maybe 27 boats packed into the lock 4 wide by 8 in line with a couple extra at the back, of which we were one. Once everyone was in the lock emptied of water and we descended to the next set of locks about 100 metres down stream - it was now chaos! And to cut a long story short a couple of the Norwegian skippers really let their country down by using barging and bullying to get near the front.

Having come through the flight of locks at Trollhattan unscathed we moved on at the recommended 5 knots toward the bridges and so forth down stream, whilst our Norwegian travellers cracked on with all haste and quickly disappeared into the distance. The day was lovely, loads of sunshine, nice cool breeze and very few merchant ships. When we did arrive at the next bridge, guess what, there waiting for us were the four Norwegian boats, milling around waiting for the rest of us. Now you would have thought that they would realise that the authorities calculate bridge and lock opening times based on recommended speed on the canal, but no they had to wait at every lock and bridge and one complained that he had had to wait 2 hours.

Gotenborg was a welcome sight tonight after a long day on the last leg of our journey through Sweden. The place is buzzing with people and music being played on board an old square rigger 'Viking' which is now a 5 star hotel. We are right in the middle of town so tomorrow we plan to take in some of the sights.

Wednesday 3 Aug 2011

We awoke to the twittering of swallows this morning picking the midges off the boat; they even landed on our hatch net having hopped through the wind chute. It was a really nice start to the day. Christine a Ben took their early morning stroll and took some pictures in the morning sunshine whilst I did a little preparation for the journey around the top of the island of Kollandso through the Skargard, yet another very narrow channel through absolutely gorgeous small islands. There are so many beautiful places to anchor it is just impossible to choose one in particular.

We took about an hour to make our passage through the Skargard which was quite exciting with many twists and turns. Having entered the Vanern Lake 'proper' we set course for Vanersborg in the south of the lake and the beginning of the Trollhattan canal and made six knots for most of the way. The weather was 'balmy' to say the least so the sun screen came out and mozzy spray. We must have entered a 'cloud' of small flies because for about an hour and a half we were inundated with the damn things. Thank goodness we had our repellent to hand and the electric 'Rade' plug in the main cabin. We arrived at Vanersborg at 15:30 and just cleared the bridge with half a metre to spare passing through the open railway bridge and then into the marina. The marina has a reasonably well stocked chandlery too!

The town is OK and the supermarket is just a couple of minutes away and quite a big one with lots of goodies. Tonight it is hot and clammy with dark clouds on the horizon - what we need is a quick thunder storm to clear the air. Tomorrow we do some lock work again and head for Trollhattan. We can make a decision to either stay there or continue on down the canal.

Tuesday 2 Aug 2011

Woke up to a gorgeous sunny day in Sjotorp. After a leisurely breakfast and spruce up we seat off through the last three locks of the Gota canal alone. All other boats had either gone for the 9-o-clock lock or were not bothering until later. The journey to Lacko required quite a lot of concentration because the passage takes a tortuous route through rocky bits, then across open water to yet another winding route through buoys.

What a joy to come here though! Apart from the magnificent castle the authorities have made it a beautiful mooring place with all the facilities framed by a natural backdrop of the lagoon and tastefully designed jetties. We are moored bows too with our stern to a buoy. There is a very light wind blowing which is just enough to make the heat of the sun bearable to sit in. Ben thinks this place is yet another doggy heaven and has been for a swim in the fresh water. Unusually he actually went all in. Christine also decided to take the plunge and leapt off the back of the boat. All this for a mere £12.00 per night.

Although we have had a walk ashore I think that it is too good not to take in more of the experience, so this evening we will again take to the walking.

Monday 1 Aug 2011

At last the pump arrived from the UK at 12:20, which is excellent service when you think it was ordered mid morning on Friday 29th July. The quick release butterfly nuts were fitted and then the pump fitted into the boat. All tested and working. We intend to take the last three locks out of the Gota canal tomorrow morning and head into Lake Vanern via the channel between Torso and the mainland and then through a couple of small gaps toward Lacko on the island of Kallandso.

Yet again it has gone very quiet here as everyone moved on either up the canal or on to Mariestad but I guess that the tranquillity may not last long as the afternoon batch of boats come to overnight. Ah! there is one now, plus what sounds like ten thousand children - all budding cross channel swimmers!!!! As the afternoon drifted into evening and the sun enticed everyone to sit on deck we were joined by a trimaran adjacent to us with four German guys and a German lady on board. As 6-o-clock loomed closer until it was with us we readied our G&T whilst our German acquaintances charged their glasses with Schnapps and Steiner beers; the Swedish raised their, what looked like a good malt whiskey with beer chaser . Everyone, of all nationalities, is in holiday mood and happy, so I guess it's skoll, slangevar and cheers to all.

Sunday 31 Jul 2011

Removed the defective water pump this morning and removed the butterfly screws that I fitted for speedy impeller changes. Also noted that one of the Jubilee clips was well past it so replaced that too. We've done a couple of constitutional walks locally and gently taken the day as it came. I also managed to get the Grand Prix commentary on the internet and then had forty winks in the heat of the afternoon.

The mooring we are using is lovely and nearby there is a dry dock and some quite extensive canal workshops. One point of great interest to me was the wood steamer, used to bend planks without them cracking. The autoclave is about 15 metres long and was still warm, from use during the past week.

Saturday 30 Jul 2011

Arrgh wonderful, a restful day today, just slouched about a bit! Christine downloaded a new book to her Kindle and hasn't been heard since - supper could be looking decidedly dodgy! I toyed with the idea of removing the existing water pump and removing the butterfly nuts ready for the new pump but then relaxed into something else. Maybe tomorrows job.

The weather is great and about 25 degrees Centigrade, with a cool breeze. Where we are moored, next to the traditional wooden Gota canal offices, also seems to be where the small motor boats change over charters and top up with Diesel close by; it's been busy all day with new people taking on boats. I have been reading about overwintering here which although not on our horizon it gave food for thought at about �850.00 and for that, under cover. Most people from the Scandinavian countries don't have a good impression of sailing in the UK , particularly on the south coast as the price of marina mooring is more than double what you pay here.

We have also been joined by an acquaintance from Holland who has a big Dutch sailing barge. He has just had a fuel pump fixed and is now spending a couple of days here before making the journey across lake Vanern to the Trollhatte canal. That should take two to three days.

Tonight, after supper and a couple of Skype calls to family and friends, we hope to watch Octopusy on local TV. You can't beat a good James Bond movie, in English of course, with Swedish subtitles. But before that we have the sun over the yard arm tradition to fulfill with G&T, ice & slice - and its only 16:45 at the moment!! Maybe a cup of tea and a cake will help pass the time until six-o-clock.

Friday 29 Jul 2011

Throughout yesterday more boats came into the harbour until there were one or two double berthed. It seems the thing to do is have a BBQ at one of the many bench tables that are about and there was quite a chattering of families doing just that until well after 23:30. This morning we are on our own as all the boats have moved on one by one and by 11:30 the last one had left. With the pump ordered and recipient organised we can relax and so this afternoon we are catching the 12:50 number 502 bus to Mariestad, some 20 Km south. We need to restock with Gin and the nearest System Bolag (State Offlicence) is at Mariestad so that is our excuse for visiting the relatively small town. We had planned to visit there by boat but that may now not be necessary.

This morning I was a busy bunny taking the last chance of an airlock out of the engine cooling water pipework. Fortunately, the fitting turned without problem. My other job was to re-grease the loo pump and shaft with plumbers silicone grease to prevent squeaking and prolong the seals life. That done, emails answered and sent, it's time for lunch and a cuppa tea before setting off for this afternoons unknowns!

Oh! Thanks to Sid for his kind advice regarding the water pump problem.

Mmmmm! The 12:50 502 bus didn't arrive as we had been advised, it seems it does not run mid Jul to mid Aug. We caught the 14:03 instead and arrived in Mariestad 25 minutes later. The place is OK but we have saved ourselves the berth fee by doing it by bus. Having wandered about town we caught the 16:38 bus back to Sjotorp, complete with Gin.

It is now 19:40 and the harbour is full of boats of all nationalities but only one 'Brit', us. We have settled in to our berth for the next few days, until our pump arrives, so we will take advantage of Skype and call our on line friends for free, and others by the Skype landline facility' it's only 1.6 pence per minute. And now to sit on deck with a cool G&T, ice and slice in the evening sunshine; then a Bond movie on local TV!

Thursday 28 Jul 2011

Today we followed a Viking replica ship through the first lock and the next two locks we had to ourselves before other boats joined us. Our stay at Norrkvarn was nice and quiet and this morning it was lovely to be alone waiting for the lock. Although the leg had 8 locks to negotiate they were all downhill and the only frustration we had was waiting for an hour at one of the locks for a passenger boat that had no passengers aboard - ah well!

Now that we have arrived at the end of the Gota canal a new chapter of our adventure opens with the Lake Vannern waiting ahead. We will be here for a few days waiting for a water pump to arrive from Marine-Power in the UK. The Gota Kanal Technical Manager has kindly offered his office address for the package when it arrives and we are moored just 15 metres away from his office. If we are lucky, Monday could see us with a new pump!

We have WiFi access and electricity and the usual showers etc. Oh! and there are numerous restaurants here.

Wednesday 27 Jul 2011

We were wakened by the sound of a motorised grass cutter at 07:15 this morning but it was such a lovely day we didn't mind. We are intending to leave just before 09:00 ready for the first bridge of a group and about nine locks to Norrkvarn our first option to stop at. The block we used to assist us going up locks can now be put away, and the use of it considered a great benefit which could prove useful in the future if contemplating locks which fill fiercely.

Norrkvarn is where we stopped. It's just a small jetty which is part of an hotel and holiday stopover, but it has power, water, cafe, restaurant and WiFi, as well as laundry room showers and a wood burning sauna - is this heaven? There is not a cloud to be seen and it is quite warm doing all this lock 'stuff'. A little snooze is called for I reckon, that is unless I get a 'calling' from Christine!

Tonight a Viking ship arrived at the lock, ready to go first thing in the morning. The crew were dressed as Vikings and it all looked very genuine except that it had an engine! Having supper on board was accompanied by a band playing just yards away to the hotel guests - all very pleasant. The sun still has plenty of warmth in it and it's turned 20:30, it is a real balmy evening one dreams of.

I managed to get a Skype call to the Yanmar dealer, Marine Power at Burseldon, earlier and we discussed options regarding the cooling water pump. It looks like shelling out about £190.00 for a complete pump to be shipped to us; I'll give the solution some thought before committing to anything just yet.

Tuesday 26 Jul 2011

This morning we had a clear run for almost an hour to the last of the uphill locks at Forsvik. This really is the high point of our trip at 91.8 metres above sea level and from here it's all downhill. Once through the lock we were in lake Viken, another gem of the route to Gotenborg. Arriving at Totorp we decended through the first of many locks downhill, which seems a much easier process for us, apart from the fact that the lock keeper packs an extra boat in. We have come through quite a number of quaint countryside 'sliding' bridges, a railway bridge and a road bridge that only opened on the hour and half hour except for at noon, 13:00 and 16:00. Guess what, we arrived at 15:45 and it seemed ages before 16:30 came.

Tonight we are in the centre of a town called Toreboda which seems like sleepy hollow. It has, almost, everything we need, showers, washing/drying facilities, loos, restaurant and supermarket, but no internet.

Monday 25 Jul 2011

This morning was bright and it has remained so all day with the sun beaming down. We all had a very restful day in Karlsborg, which is a delightful village with green parks surrounded by lakes and canals. the only noise is the half hourly sound of the ding, ding, ding, as the canal bridge is raised to let boats come and go. Ben has been in his element as the green grass is just a simple jump ashore from the boat, because we are alongside a wooden quay with easy access to the park. a batch of washing got done earlier without problem and no waiting for the free machines. After our afternoon constitutional walk we enjoyed our six-o-clock (sun over the yardarm) G&T with slice of lemmon before supper and then a movie.

The tourist office were very helpful this morning and pointed me in the direction of a marine engineers who tried to source water pump bits, but without luck. Our best bet, it seems, is to try at Sjotorp.

Tomorrow we intend to move on a short way to the last of the uphill locks which also happens to be the oldest, built in about 1813, and then we approach the first of the downhill locks at Totorp on the far side of Lake Viken.

Sunday 24 Jul 2011

Having rained all night it was still drizzling at 10:00 this morning and it really didn't stop until midday. We decided to head off for Karlsborg at noon even though the wind was blowing 20 knots or so, because a tourist boat was due into our berth at 14:00. Having ventured into Lake V�ttern we found the seas were on the beam with short steep waves - not at all comfortable. The 'goffers' were predictable, I suppose, but one advantage is that fresh water dries out quicker than salty water!

Our sailing challenges were made worse because the engine had overheated, again, and all indications are that it is the water pump body that is worn out so that it doesn't 'pull' water through. Further investigation is required and I'll research if there is a supplier in the area.

We arrived at Karlsborg at 14:30 having had to sail into the space on the pontoon. A hot lunch was well received followed by pudding and a mug of hot tea - what more could one wish for. This evening the wind is blowing at about 18 knots and the temperature is a cool 17 C with frequent rain showers. The forecast for tomorrow is for much the same.

Saturday 23 Jul 2011

The day started at 01:15 with intense flashes of lightening and an almighty crashing and banging of thunder. The lightening had struck the castle some 50 metres away! I must have jumped six inches out of bed and Christine suggested I check on Ben, who was asleep in the main cabin. I slipped out of bed all bleary eyed and peeped into the main cabin to see that Ben was fast asleep with his head buried under the cushions; ah well that's Ben. I got back into our warm bed and enjoyed the 'fireworks' for another hour before peace reigned once more and the freshness associated with the passing of a storm pervaded.

This morning the three of us visited the local monastery ruins and a luxury hotel that had once been the modern monastery. Vadstena is really gorgeous and the fresh greenery all around was a delight to walk through. Our morning walk took us back through town and we decided to stop for pancakes, strawberry preserve and fresh cream - yummy it was too! The town was inundated with priests and other church dignitaries which reminded me of the recent Wicca wedding we attended in Southsea!

Friday 22 Jul 2011

After a pleasant stay in Motala we decided to up sticks and make the short journey on the Vattern to Vadstena. It was well worth the journey and we are now moored in the moat of Vadstena Castle alongside a German flagged boat on one side and a Norwegian on the other. The harbour master is just as we were told and was a great help getting us bows too and making electricity available. The three of us walked the 300 metres to the centre of town just before lunch to find a quaint main street, much as it must have been for centuries. we got everything we needed from the 'Coop' before lunching on board.

The castle was just too tempting not to visit today so we did the tour around a stunning piece of Swedish history. Christine took lots of pictures and we managed to be able to see the boat from the second floor, a real treat. Our conclusion is that the Swedish seem to cherish their historic infrastructure and the interesting thing here is that the castle also hosts the Swedish National Archive, which is open to the public.

The weather started out grey and damp after a thunderstorm last night that lasted a good hour and a half, but by 11:00 the sun was starting to break through. This evening we had supper in the cockpit in brilliant sunshine and even now at 10:15 it is still warm out.

Thursday 21 Jul 2011

Today was cooler and cloudier than in recent times and we stayed in Motala to 'do stuff'. This morning I modified the water strainer to make it self priming and yet capable of being cleared without spilling any water into the boat. Job done, a visit to the chandlery was called for - just to look! Well, I have to report that this was the best stocked chandlery we have been to since Lemmer in Holland. The only thing it did not stock was charts; but then there is no need here! The chandler was also the sea rescue skipper who just happened to have the sea rescue boat moored next to Inadee. We had a good old chat about this and that and his forthcoming visit to Scotland.

We had lunch out and then I poodled off to look at the Motala Broadcasting Museum. It had excellent examples of transmitters from as far back as 1922 with outputs as high as 150 kW. It may be a sign of my age but I actually recognised some of the old Marconi valves and I could swear that one of the HF sets was the same as I used at RNAS Lossiemouth!

Coming back to the boat I ran into some excitement on the pontoon; a yacht had run aground and one of her crew had fallen on deck and had a suspected broken ankle. Well, the ambulance and paramedics took control and the poor guy was quickly whisked away to the local hospital.

Wednesday 20 Jul 2011

Overnight there was thunder overhead and a real downpour, but we were tucked up in bed. This morning was fresh and sunny with hardly a ripple on the little lake as we made our way here to Motala. The flow of water coming into the flight of locks was really vicious and in the noise I forgot to turn the engine off with the result that I got an airlock in the engine cooling water system - damn! I will investigate moving the water filter to a position that prevents an airlock occurring in the first instance.

Motala is quite a large town and Christine and I paid a visit to the town centre and topped up our stocks of Gin - Ouch! The marina also doubles as a tourist centre with lots of tourists, restaurants and cafes together with a well stocked car museum. It is all very nice.

Tuesday 19 Jul 2011

Great start, bright sunshine and not a cloud to be seen. We were up early and showered in the pristine facilities just nearby. At 08:30 we slipped our mooring and waited at the next flight of four locks for the 09:00 opening together with four other boats. One minor incident was when a rather big German boat tried to gatecrash the lock but we were impressed when two of his fellow countrymen on their boats gave him a piece of their minds! He had to wait for a later locking in which turned out to be much later as the cruise ship took precedence and it must have been well after 10:00 when he managed to move on.

The day was rather tiring with lots of locks, bridges and it was like doing a modified 'foxtrot' - slow, slow, quick, slower, slow. However, this was balanced by the gorgeous countryside that we came through. Christine managed to get some pictures of the lambs and sheep that were meandering along the towpath at various points. We eventually arrived at Borensberg at 14:30 and managed to moor next to a couple who were just about to leave, enabling us to get a nice alongside berth. There are lots of boats here and many are having barbecues this evening so there are lovely smells wafting by from time to time. As for me, I cycled into town for some victuals and tonic ready for our sundowner G&T. We have also decided to dig into our pockets and pay a visit to the state off licence to purchase a bottle of Gin (SKR 239.99) as we are running low on this vital luxury.

Tomorrow we hope to make an early start for Motala, quite a large town, on the banks of Lake Vattern. It says there is a chandlery there!

Monday 18 Jul 2011

It started dull and wet and remained so for most of the day so we stayed put not wanting to make our way through numerous locks and bridges. Berg was a really nice place with lovely countryside to roam around with Ben, which we did. Nearby was a large car park especially made for motor homes and visitors wanting to get the small cruise ship that is based here. Despite the rain showers that persisted throughout most of the day we managed to get our constitutional walk in and also enjoyed an ice cream from the stall at the top of the flight of locks.

Sunday 17 Jul 2011

The sun was shining early today and we had a leisurely breakfast before topping up the diesel and then heading through the bridge, lock and another bridge into the Roxen lake. It was very calm and we had a 4 knot wind on our port beam. We arrived at Berg and joined two motor boats waiting to enter the flight of seven locks. We volunteered to go first as a sailing boat has the advantage of being able to use a winch to keep the boat under control. Once we were all moored up with tight lines the water rushed in and it was necessary to use the winch to keep the head warp tight. This we did seven times - phew! Once at the top of the flight of locks we entered a really nice basin of about 200 metres diameter with moorings around 3/4 of it.

We moored next to Danish friends we had made earlier on a boat called Isa Lei and chatted about the days excitement going up the locks. Berg is a village in the countryside which is popular with holiday makers who get a great deal of fun out of watching the boats being handled in the numerous locks. There are lots of places to walk and Ben is in his element making friends with all the people and dogs.

Saturday 16 Jul 2011

It was quite cloudy and cool as we left Soderkoping, but thankfully dry. Having just missed the first bridge opening, we had to wait 30 minutes before moving on to the first of many locks. We had rigged the lines as recommended by the Swedish canal authorities and it worked very well for us all the way to here through the nine locks.

Norsholm is a quiet village that, it seems, just happens to be a convenient distance between the bigger stopovers. It has a couple of restaurants, a sauna and washing machine, as well as the expected facilities. We are one of about 10 boats alongside a new wooden promenade which has the smell of freshly cut pitch pine. It's all very neat and tidy with more than enough electrical connections. I haven't managed to get a WiFi connection yet but will search about after supper.

Friday 15 Jul 2011

Didn't it rain! The downpour lasted most of the night but this morning we again have bright sunshine and a mass exodus of boats going east and west. We decided to stay here today to get a medication top-up and a mooch about a bit. The Medical Centre staff were really helpful and I got coffee and a biscuit whilst I waited for the doctor to write out my prescription for the stay-alive stuff. The local apothecary were equally nice to talk to, but it did cost a bit - Ouch! Anyway, I am now geared up with pills to, hopefully, last until our return to the UK.

This afternoon Christine and I are getting on our bikes and cycling about a Km out of town to the west, to see the swing bridge and moorings on the other side. Ben will be on boat-watch. We have a boat ahead of us with three gents on board from Germany, two work for Mercedes and we all have a good giggle together. Well it rained again late afternoon but that didn't stop our cycling trip. Back at the boat we managed a few emails and family Skype's before supper and then settled down to the comfort of the boat.

Saturday, we intend to be ready at 08:45 and set off west to go through the swing bridge just 500 metres away. There could be quite an exodus of boats leaving for the six or so hour journey to Norsholm. We may not have WiFi there.

Thursday 14 Jul 2011

I've started the missive early today as it is only 11:00 and a little windy with rain expected later. We have had guests on board for morning coffee and to discuss each others routes, in opposite directions, and then a little shopping before lunch. So far, 14:45, the rain has not come although the wind has picked up and the clouds are gathering, but it still very pleasant walking on the promenade. Hark, the call for lunch - I could eat a horse!

This evening it started raining, as predicted, and continues to do so at 21:00. We are tucked up with hatches shut tight and lounging about in the comfort of our boat. We have two boats alongside, one Swedish one German and just ahead of us an English boat whose owners live in France, Morbihan. We are lucky that we can stay here for five days if necessary without charge. Christine took advantage of the predicted weather and has done a load of washing, using the free facilities, so I guess I'll be spruced up tomorrow! To finish - there is nothing quite so nice has to be tucked up in your boat with the rain pattering on the deck.

Wednesday 13 Jul 2011

After a delightful stay at Norrkopings Segelsollskap we upped warps at 09:45 and set off for the Gota canal. The journey was as picturesque as ever and as we got closer to the canal start so more boats appeared - that is 6 or 7! At the first lock we paid our dues of SKR 5900.00 and after a very brief briefing we entered the lock with four other boats - quite tightly packed. The recommendation to use a tight back warp and longer forward warp capable of being winched was good and apart from not having gone through the process before it turned out to be fairly easy because the water really does rush in and then bounces back.

We managed to negotiate the first lock before the engine overheat alarm went off and we quickly glided to a waiting pontoon outside a cafe. Further investigation and a water pump strip down indicated that everything was in good order and the problem appeared to be caused by an airlock, primarily caused by the rush of water into the lock - we were first in after all!

Tonight we are in Soderkoping rafted up next to a fine Italian gentleman and his boat. The place is busy with holiday makers and equally busy bars and restaurants. The weather is sunny and the temperature is a very pleasant 25 degrees - clear blue sky.

Tuesday 12 Jul 2011

We have arrived at Arkosund and moored up at Norrkopings Segelsollskap a very friendly sailing club with acceptable facilities and a sauna. This morning we left Oxelosund at 09:25 in a brisk 15-20 knot south-south west wind (on the nose, of course!!!). The three hour trip was OK with lots of sailing traffic going both ways along the route. The last bit of the passage was a little 'wiggly' but not too difficult and once we turned into the sound it was very sheltered. This marina is just a nice place to be in comparison to the marina we stayed at on our last visit and tonight we will visit the clubhouse for a drink, or maybe more. Christine made us a very nice sweet pickled herring salad followed by sweet pancakes with honey - all absolutely yummy! This afternoon we will take a walk and visit the local store just up the road for some 'goodies' ready for our trip to Mem tomorrow.

Tonight we had a light supper at a small bistro/cafe at the edge of a beautiful wooded area and the waters edge. The view from the hilltop in the woods are spectacular, looking over the sound towards the open sea. It certainly makes one feel very lucky to have experienced this trip.

Monday 11 Jul 2011

Oxelosund, arriving at 1700! The thirty five miles seemed like a long way for some reason as we did a bit of shopping and left Nynashamn at 09:45 on a dull but dry day. The first part of our trip was busy with boats but as we moved south west it got less busy, and to our mind, prettier. There were lots of coves and idyllic places to either anchor or moor bows to the rocks and a kedge anchor; and many spots already had picnic tables conveniently positioned. Our trip was uneventful apart from three or four wiggly bits which required a little more concentration. Christine is currently busy planning what we should do tomorrow, but it is looking like Arkosund, this time though we will try another marina which we 'sussed out' the last time we were there.

Sunday 10 Jul 2011

It was a wet start to the day and we half expected it to continue raining for most of the day; fortunately by 10:30 it stopped and just remained cloudy until about 15:00. We had a leisurely cooked breakfast and constitutional walk before setting off at 12:45. There were quite a large number of other boats sailing between the islands and all were enjoying the ideal sailing conditions. For us the wind was on the port side at between 30 and 90 degrees which for most of the time gave us good speed. We eventually made harbour at about 16:45 and joined the many visiting yachts resting in the evening sunshine. Apart from visiting the harbourmasters office we have not ventured ashore yet but will make a trip into town early tomorrow. Our objective, the Gota canal, is only a couple of days away and tomorrow we join up with the track we used to head north and we hope to get to Oxelosund.

Saturday 9 Jul 2011

We got a fairly early start even though we were boxed in by two other yachts. Stockholm harbour is a busy place and there's lots of wash from the many ferries that rush back and forth. Once we got off the main channel and on route to our destination Karlslunds it was calm for most of the time with an occasional power boat beating a wash everywhere. The scenery is something to remember and almost everyone in Sweden must own a boat of some kind. Karlslunds marina is just what we wanted, it has a reasonable chandlery, five star showers and facilities and what looks to be a good restaurant that we intend to try! This afternoon Christine and I took a look at the charts and put together a passage plan for the next couple of days to get us to Mem and the start of the Gota canal. However, plans may change!!! Now for that shower.

Tonight we decided to have a meal at the marina restaurant, which turned out to be an excellent choice for us. The place was busy with local, friendly, boat owners and everyone was in party mood. Meal over we returned to Inadee for after dinner drinks and then a DVD before bed.

Friday 8 Jul 2011

Kate got away at 08:00, taking the number 7 tram to central railway station and then the 20 minute rail express to the airport (Arlanda). The boat feels very quiet now and we decided to stay in Stockholm for another day to do our banking 'stuff' online and to rest up from all the walking we have done. The weather is brilliant with loads of sunshine and a very light breeze, however, the forecast says light rain for tomorrow morning. Our intention is to make for Dalar� in the Swedish Archepeligo, some 30 miles or so from here, but first we have to get out of the marina past three boats that are currently blocking our way - my guess is that they will be moving on too. I cycled across town to visit the chandlery which took a couple of hours out of my day! The chandler is well stocked and has most of what is in the 'Watski' catalogue. We had a minor inconvenience just as we were getting supper ready on the induction hob; the power tripped due to a power boat having an excessive load, it's 6 Amps here!

Thursday 7 Jul 2011

Today we were joined by Peter, Cia's brother, and the five of us walked the 100 metres to the Vasa museum. It is a magnificent spectacle of a Swedish ship which sank on its maiden voyage in 1623 into the mud of Stockholm's brackish water to be preserved for almost 400 years before being raised and further preserved as a museum centre piece. The black oak timbers show the whole ship with very little having had to have been restored with new timber making it a wonderful display. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the experience and this afternoon we sat on board reflecting on our trip to Sweden so far. Tonight we all had supper aboard before saying farewell to Cia and Peter. Tomorrow Kate sets off at 08:00 for her flight back to the UK and Christine and I decide our next destination which will be somewhere in the Swedish Archipeligo on route to the Gota canal.

Wednesday 6 Jul 2011

The girls started the day off walking the dog and sightseeing Sigtuna, picking up breakfast from the local bakery on route. We had breakfast on the hoof in transit to our new destination, Stockholm. The sun was just right as we made our way through Sweden's countryside southward. We negotiated the half a dozen bridges of one type or another and came through the lock into Stockholm for a mere SKR 160.00. Our final mile or so was through the busy waters of Stockholm centre to the Vasa marina (SKR 300.00 per day.) where we hope to be for two days.

The girls have already jumped ship to do a bit of shopping - not the victualling kind I reckon! Ben and I are resting, enjoying a little peace and quiet and a cup of tea.

Tuesday 5 Jul 2011

Today we set off from Skarholmen with two extra crew, Cia and Gertrude, Cia's daughter. We giggled most of the way to Sigtuna stopping on the way to visit a Royal Castle, Skoklosters Slott. The guided tour was well worth being a part of and some of the exhibits were astounding, particularly the armoury content. We had lunch at the castle before moving on to Sigtuna where we were to meet up with the 'gang' for dinner at a recommended restaurant. Dinner for ten at the Bat Hus was just the job and after an excellent meal we retired to the boat for coffee.

It seemed very quiet after everyone had gone home bar our daughter and Cia, the day had been a real success.

Monday 4 Jul 2011

What a busy day! This morning we spruced up the boat making space available for our two guests and preparing ourselves for partying. Christine took the bus to Uppsala Central Station to pick up Kate and have a quick tour of the city before coming back to the boat at 16:30. At 18:30 Cia and her daughter turned up, together with her boyfriend, Fredrick, and we all piled into the car to be taken for dinner at Cia's. After a 'little' wine and food we stayed in a comfy bed for the night before being picked up at 08:30 on Tuesday

It was a really good day!

Sunday 3 Jul 2011

Today it is a little grey, no sun! Christine and I took the BioBuss (bus) across Uppsala to the retail park where there was a Co-op and, guess what, an Ikea! We decided to have a 'Family Member' lunch before doing quite a big shopping expedition into the Co-op. The people on the bus wanted to know all about our adventure and reported that very few English yachts, if any, came to Uppsala. Back at the boat Ben had been on guard and so needed a good run and ball game before slouching for much of the rest of the day across one of the bunks in the main cabin. The yacht club (Segalklubb) always seems to be quite busy with members pottering about and doing jobs related to the club itself. This is a 'true' member run affair and each member does a rota duty as well as participating in organised working parties. The club celebrates 100 years in 2013. Tomorrow we do final preparations for meeting daughter Kate off the train from the airport and meeting up with our friend Cia for dinner together. The sauna is looking ever so inviting!

Saturday 2 Jul 2011

Well! The parties went on until about 02:00 before slowly quietening down, but everyone sounded in good spirits. We were up early and ready to go by 08:30, eventually getting under way at 09:00. The journey to Skarholmen was relatively short and about 15 miles with a single swing bridge to negotiate. We got there on time, 10:00, and followed all the procedures in the book to no avail and the radio call produced no response! We moored alongside the bridge and the repositioned ourselves very close to it which must have registered on one of the cameras, because at 10:15 the bell rang, barriers came down and the bridge slowly swung open. We moved on at a leisurely pace, checking out a pontoon adjacent to one of the Royal Palaces which we hope to visit with our daughter next week.

We eventually arrived at Skarholmen marina at about 12:30 and found ourselves in the middle of their regatta. On completion of mooring our boat we went to book in to be met by a small group who knew we were coming! They asked if we were the boat from Portsmouth, England, who had been mentioned on Sverige Radio yesterday. Everyone was very nice and we were invited to be a part of the event.

This afternoon I caught the bus into Uppsala centre to get some gear whilst Christine took Ben for a walk and then relaxed. The bus trip was about 30 minutes and cost SKR 30.00 which included the return trip if made within 90 minutes of buying the ticket.

Tomorrow is a rest day from sailing!

Friday 1 Jul 2011

The forecast today was for heavy rain and sure enough it really did rain for about three hours. Fortunately, we had decided to stay here because it is so peaceful and yet has all the things we like. Coming back here on Monday is an option so that we can nip over to Arlanda airport to pick up our daughter, Kate. We checked out bus timetables at the local Tourist Information office where Maria Collin and Liselotte Fransson were very helpful, we really appreciated their cheerful assistance.

Ben loves the place 'cos there are some good walks, conveniently situated, and everyone he meets is dog friendly! From lunchtime the heavens opened and the rain just seemed to never end, however, tonight there isn't a cloud in the sky and, being a Friday lots of people are on their boats partying.

What was nice was to inadvertently disturb a nesting duck, Ben brushed past a flower tub at the local bar/cafe and the duck gave a large quack and waggled off. the nest had 7 eggs in it and the cafe owner said that this was the third year the nest had been occupied. No harm was done!

Thursday 30 Jun 2011

We had dinner on board last night to the music of a local rock 'n roll band before going to bed with all hatches open to keep the boat cool. This morning we were up at 08:00 and gently got up steam to make the journey to Sigtuna on our way to Uppsala. Our island and tree lined route was again idyllic and we got our timing right for a swing bridge at Staket followed by a a bridge where we had to go to the left hand arch and then another bridge, all within about 500 metres of each other. The other slightly confusing part was that it was impossible to see the entrance to the waterway to the bridges until we got there and the chart stated that the width was only 3.3 metres - a mite tight! Well, we arrived at Sigtuna to a full marina and squeezed into the last, dodgy, float mooring at the harbour entrance. Ashore, it was very busy with people sitting out enjoying snacks and drinking beer. The harbour master had packed up early and we eventually got booked in via the local cafe for a mere SKR 140.00 with electricity and showers.

Wednesday 29 Jun 2011

This morning Christine got up at 03:00 thinking it was time to get out of bed until I muttered something about it being too early! Anyway, although it was sunny at that time she came back to bed and we got up at a reasonable hour. Having had breakfast, which included freshly baked bread, we left our idyllic spot and headed for Stallarholmen at 09:20. the sun just seemed to get hotter as we motor sailed along and we were glad to see our goal at about 12:45. The first job was to top up with Diesel and whilst I was doing that Christine and Ben checked the small marina out. The place got the thumbs up and we decided to have a lovely lunch at the marina restaurant and book in for the night. (SKR 17.50 all in.) Tonight there is live music in the restaurant so we could be in for a treat - or something!

Tuesday 28 Jun 2011

Today was HOT and with no wind so we decided to stay here for another day as it is such a nice town with plenty to see. We visited 'Gripsholms Slott' one of the Swedish Royal Palaces today which was excellent value and a nice cultural experience of the Swedish Royals over the years. Lunch out was also excellent sitting on the veranda of the restaurant eating smoked Salmon (Lax) with a light white Dill sauce and really tasty potatoes. This afternoon we didn't do a lot apart from looking at the back of our eyelids before going to the top of our pontoon for a whopping great ice cream and a coffee. This evening we are having pre-dinner drinks on board with our new friend before watching what is now our traditional DVD before bedtime.

Monday 27 Jun 2011

The engine started without any problem this morning to bright sunshine, hardly a whisper of wind and the twittering of birds - idyllic. We had bacon and egg for breakfast (a real treat!) and deliberated where to go next, needing a phone call from our friend in Uppsala. The call came and we then planned a visit to Mariefred, odd name but true! The scenery on route was absolutely gorgeous and I have never seen so many trees and small islands. We navigated our way off the marked routes and eventually made our haven, a small town with a splendid castle, which is on our list to visit tomorrow. The town is drop dead gorgeous and the architecture is old Swedish with lots of vertically wooden plank built houses all painted traditional rusty red. The marina is quite expensive at SKR 280.00 but that is with everything showers, electric and, best of all washing and drying machines that do not need to be coin fed!

We met yet another Scotsman who kindly invited us on board his really nice boat for drinks - a good treat and lots of good tips for sailing in this part of the world. Christine is currently tottering back and forth to the service building sorting out our clean clothes.

Sunday 26 Jun 2011

A longer than our usual day today with little wind that was on the nose all the way, so no sail hoisted. We have entered the 'Malaren' which is to the west of Stockholm on our way north to Uppsala. We scoured our guides to find a mooring with the facilities we require and came up with this very basic 'marina' which is an 'add-on' to a camp site. The facilities are typical of basic UK camp sites and to book in is an hike of over 0.5 kilometres, the services block is an hike away and the WiFi can be accessed by taking the laptop to the office! Not over impressed!

We had a slight glitch today waiting for a ferry to cross when the engine stopped! I tried to re-start it but absolutely nothing happened - not even a murmur! A rather urgent look in the engine compartment and a bit of wire wiggling and I found the problem; it was the starter solenoid cable that had broken at the termination! I managed to start the engine and then tonight - just finished the job, I crimped a new terminal onto the cable and reconnected that and the heavy duty starter cable. Tomorrow will put the repair to the test. It is now 21:45 and still the sun is warmly shining, as for me I'm gonna have a hot chocolate and an early night.

My navigator, Christine, reports that we only have 35 miles to go to Uppsala! Ben is already dreaming of chasing something 'cos he's twitching and squeaking!

Saturday 25 Jun 2011

This morning was cold and cloudy with a promise of better things to come, so we set off for Trosa via the short 'tortuous' inshore route. The sun did come out and with the chilly wind behind us it got quite warm. Just after midday though it started to spit and spot with rain and we could see thunder clouds in the distance. Looking at the cloud formation we were sailing along the edge of a warm front; one side clear blue sky whilst the other was clouds and thundery 'anvils'.

We arrived at Trosa just after lunch and got a very comfortable, alongside, berth just behind a RYS boat called 'Casalamy'. It turned out that our friends from Hornet were regular sailors on the boat - small world! after paying the very nice harbourmaster his dues (SKR 210.00) for the night which included electricity, WiFi and showers we made off for the supermarket across town. It really is a very pleasant place with traditional Swedish houses and cobbled streets and the marina is simply delightful allowing a mix of yachties and holidaying public to share the area.

Friday 24 Jun 2011

We had a very restful day and realised that everywhere would be closed because it is 'Midsummer Day', a public holiday in Sweden. We dressed the boat overall and placed the three bunches of silver birch twigs around the boat as is the local custom. Our friends on Sweet Dreams came aboard for drinks and a light supper before we joined them on their boat for pudding and a nightcap. A good time was had by all and we eventually got back to Inadee just before midnight.

Thursday 23 Jun 2011

It rained and rained from the early hours until almost 12:00 and we continued to bounce about in the marina. At midday we moved out of the marina and about a mile south to Fiskehamnen marina. This turned out to be a good choice for a number of reasons; first it is only SKR 200.00 per night, it has working WiFi and the real bonus - it has a superb restaurant within 30 metres of the boat. We had lunch out which was marvellous and we are now lounging about ready to curl up for an afternoon nap. I recommend Fiskehamnen marina over the Badhusviken marina if not only on comfort and price. And now with drooping eyelids I can hardly keep open I am going to have forty winks (it's 14:30)! Early this evening we had drinks on an English boat, 'Sweet Dreams' - Wow, an absolutely fab self built boat to a very high standard! A real treat to visit.

Wednesday 22 Jun 2011

Got up at 08:00, showered, breakfasted and the set off following our friends toward Oxel�sund, and hopefully a chandlery with the charts we need. With hardly any wind and what was there was in the wrong direction we steadily headed on our numerous courses. We eventually arrived at 12:45 to another bumpy marina costing SKR 280.00. We found the well stocked chandlery and the charts - Hooray! With the bikes assembled we took the short road to the small town and found an ATM for much needed cash, then on to the supermarket. We had a light lunch ashore - very nice, and then relaxed back on board reviewing our charts and deliberating a course of action for tomorrow. The weather this afternoon has been heavy rain showers and fairly light squalls of wind. We are a little disappointed with the marina 'cos we are rocking and rolling for no apparent reason. The mooring is bows too and stern to a buoy. Tomorrow we start the inshore route up to Stockholm!

Tuesday 21 Jun 2011

After a very nice peaceful night at Fyrudden we got up at a reasonable hour 8-o-clock and had a leisurely breakfast before refuelling with diesel and heading off for Arkosund. We had a pleasant sail in light winds, with a cool breeze, and very nice scenery. We arrived here at Arkosund and moored in a very quiet spot behind a small island. Unfortunately the mooring was not in sight of the WiFi antenna so we moved into a mooring more suitable. We have met up with a couple who have just come west to east through the Gota canal and tomorrow we are going to follow them on the journey to Nykoping. Arkosund is lovely, although expensive at SKR 280.00, but it does have everything we need, that is, except for the charts we wanted! Tonight is sunny and, of course, the longest day which in this part of the world means that it does not actually get dark. I'll put a cover on the forward hatch tonight to make sure the sun does not wake us too early.

Monday 20 Jun 2011

To start my missive I just need to say what a terrible marina Vastervik Gasthamn was! Poor value for money, run down pontoons, old type euro power plugs. The outlook from the pool/seating area was of four dustbins which covered the nice woodland/marine scene view behind.

We had a really superb trip to here, Fyrudden, taking the inshore route. Dodging between rocks and absolutely brilliant scenery, through narrow channels and wooded areas that came right down to the waters edge was amazing and the, not so little, red summer houses were a delightful sight. We arrived at this small marina at 16:00 in a downpour of rain which completely soaked us, just as we were rigging the fenders and preparing the boat for mooring. Three local, old men, watched from the cover of the chandlery, whilst we came alongside; we could tell they were just willing the downpour to stop. Now this place is idyllic, superb views of the tree covered islands, a small shop, chandlers and showers, electricity, oh, and free WiFi - all for SKR 100.00 per night (£9.65). There is even diesel available at a reasonable cost and the water here is also free. I have the distinct feeling we may stay over, if Christine has a mind!

Sunday 19 Jun 2011

It rained from about 02:00 until 09:30 persistently and heavily. We set a deadline to leave, or not, at 11:00 and at 09:45 we decided to go for it. It started well with just a nice breeze and occasional sunshine, but that was short lived! The wind quite quickly picked up and was soon blowing 27 knots on our port quarter. We fully reefed down with an handkerchief foresail but still sped along at 7 knots with a rush at one time of almost 8 knots. Ben was really good, he got his head down on the cabin sole (on a soft cushion - of course!) whilst Christine did the navigating. Anyway, we arrived at the entrance islands and were absolutely taken with the views of the small creeks, summer homes and the scene in general - quite impressive. This is the most expensive marina we have been to so far at SKR 280.00 per night (�26.92), however it comes with all services electric, showers, WiFi and swimming pool. The rain is again lashing down so we are here all cosy, Christine sipping G&T and I am having hot soup, whilst Ben is chomping away on his supper.

Saturday 18 Jun 2011

This morning we left Kalmar at 07:45 and made our way, under sail, for Oskarshamn. It started out quite warm in the early morning sunshine but the wind died away and moved round to the east and brought a cold chill to the air. From about 11:15 we motor sailed due north, eventually arriving at Oskarshamn at 1600. We've come into the town harbour as the outer marina was open to the chilly wind. At SKR 11.00 per night it's pretty good value, when that includes all facilities, except WiFi. We had a walk round town but everywhere closes at about 15:00 on Saturdays so we returned to the boat, settled down to a G&T (we brought the Gordon's with us!) and are now watching a DVD in readiness for supper on board. Tonight, after supper, we will look at the weather for tomorrow and decide where to make for next. Ben is happy, he has been fed and walked and is now making a commotion playing with squeaky toys! Christine is doing her usual magic on the evening meal, which smells mouth wateringly good.

Friday 17 Jun 2011

We have had a nice touristy day today, visiting Kalmar Castle and lunching at the castle park restaurant. Ben, as usual, has made many friends and two people came over specifically to enquire about him. We were wise to stay here today has it was very squally with heavy rain, hailstone and thunder and lightning. Tonight the wind has dropped to nothing and the sky is cloudless. It is rather a chilly night though and our heater is on whilst we watch local TV which is showing 'Superman' followed by 'Spartacus'.

The chandlers here is excellent and has a comprehensive stock of charts and guides. I have purchased a good guide called 'Landsort - Skanor', including the Gota canal (ISBN 978-91-89564-74-9). The content is thorough and informative. WiFi (WLAN) is good value in Kalmar and was very stable at SKR 20.00 per 24 hours (£1.93 GBP).

Tomorrow we hope to head for Oskershamn or suitable mooring in the vicinity. The wind is forecast to be around 7 knots from SSW moving round to the SE and increasing locally to 12 knots with a chance of rain, however, just further north the wind is forecast to stay around 8 knots throughout the day.

Thursday 16 Jun 2011

Another early rise, and bacon butties for breakfast - yummy! With just over fifty miles between Utklippan and Kalmar we needed to get going early and at the time, 08:00 there was no wind. With lots of early morning sunshine we set course for Kalmar, which is marked very well by cardinal buoys. No sooner had we left the safety of the small haven than a sea fog appeared and visibility dropped to less than twenty metres. I set my auto fog horn on and tweaked the plotter to give us a safe course and we settled down to keep a good watch for anything untoward. About twenty minutes into the fog and there was an almighty bang fro about three hundred metres away as a boat actually hit one of the cardinal posts - ouch! I heard lots of shouting and listened on 16 to see if any assistance might be required - luckily none was requested. The fog eventually burnt off and the wind gradually picked up to 16 knots on the starboard quarter. We sped along and arrived at Kalmar in time to refuel and moor up, stern to the jetty and bows to a buoy.

We have had a quick trip to the city centre and took Ben for a walk in a park opposite the castle, which is on our visit plan for tomorrow. The place gets a thumbs up from us so here we will stay for at least two days.

Wednesday 15 Jun 2011

We got up and running early today, fuelled up and set off for Utklippan at 0815 with about 5 other yachts of all nationalities. The wind started calmly and by 10:00 had risen to about 15 knots and a choppy sea. Utklippan is a very small pair of 'skerries' with a man made harbour capable of sheltering about 20 boats. There are two entrances, one to the east and one to the west. I decided to go in through the western entrance which turned out to be quite 'hairy' as the sea state was not really what the boss, Christine, would say was ideal. Anyway, we surfed in and having dropped the main, rigged the fenders etc. we moored up against the eastern wall. It was all very calm inside. The facilities were fairly basic, a couple of 'thunderbox' loos, electricity that did not work and a sauna that was a rowboat ride away. The place though was just as it must have been for over a hundred years - and a nice place to stop-over. There was WifI available but having no electricity available we didn't bother.

Tuesday 14 Jun 2011

Well we got up early and re-fuelled before leaving harbour but the conditions were just not suitable to go for the long journey to Utklippan so we came to Han�, a small island just off the Swedish mainland. We were right to come here because not only did it rain but the wind picked up followed by a choppy sea which would have been right up our 'chuff'. The place is delightful and the local folk very friendly. It is only a small harbour but somehow the yachts keep coming in - thank goodness we arrived early!

It was here that H.M.S Victory overwintered in 1810 and where some of her crew succumbed to the hardship and were buried here. We will visit the memorial to these poor souls who must have suffered great hardship in those days of the Royal Navy.

Mooring here has been exciting! The first hour or so was everyone for themselves with little regard for leaving room for more boats coming. The very nice but firm harbour master turned up and 'advised' everyone to close-up the space between boats and to face the same way - this in at least four languages and cultures!!! One fussy German skipper with a boat about 45 foot spent too long wandering about aimlessly with the result that all vacant spaces bar one little corner had been taken. I think he is still adjusting his warps!

Hopefully tonight will see the wind reduce and the harbour quieten down to stop the boat movement just a touch.

Monday 13 Jun 2011

08:00. Plan is to move to Simrishaven, Sweden, today as weather conditions are suitable for crossing the Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) between Bornholm and the Swedish mainland. We arrived at 15:00 and eventually found a contact for the Customs to register Ben into Sweden. Just about to visit town. Quaint little place with single story colourful houses and cobbled streets with many restaurants and cafes. We managed to find a conveniently located Netto for some victuals and a perusal of the liquor store - Ouch! Spirits are mighty expensive (Gin £23.00 a bottle) with wine about the same as in the UK. Hope to be up early in the morning to get fuel and then move on to Utklippan some 52 miles NE whilst the weather is favourable.

Sunday 12 Jun 2011

A good day to take a rest! Lots of sunshine and a cool breeze to go with a very nice town. We had a wander round the place and had a huge pizza for lunch before cycling to the chandlers across the other side of the port; it was shut but I got the idea of what it had in store - well stocked. This afternoon Christine, Ben and I had a walk along the beach which is about 100 metres away. It has golden fine sand and of course no tide to worry about. Ben performed fetching his ball until it bounced further in the water than he was willing to go. We tried all sorts of persuasion but to no avail and Christine was almost down to the bare essentials before we realised that the wind would blow the ball, eventually, under a pier down the beach. Eventually, after much action from us and the dog, we managed the retrieval and decided to head back to the boat for supper. Tomorrow we move on to a new country, new currency and new people - Sweden. Not sure which option to take for places to head for, that will depend on the wind and waves - a nice F4 from the south west would do just the trick, watch this space. Fuel here seems expensive at 22.02 Danish Kroner per litre so we will not top up our tanks just yet.

Saturday 11 June 2011

Another early day today to get fuel and through the lifting bridge at 08:20. The day started gorgeous with hardly any wind and bright warm sunshine. It was just too good a day to waste so we decided to make for Bornholm some 80 miles across the Baltic. With fuel replenished (at £1.55 a litre) we meandered with the other fifteen early boaters through the bridge and down the 20 or so mile trip to open water. Crossing the Griefswalder Bodden seemed to take forever until we got to the 3 mile buoyed channel to the Baltic proper. There wasn't even a ripple on the water and the only wind was that created by us and it stayed that way almost all the way to Bornholm. The last half hour of the journey from 22:30 it got steadily darker and the wind picked up to 13 knots, ideal sailing wind. Anyway, we eventually followed the leading light into N�rrek�s marina just north of R�nne. It was by now very dark and we decided to get moored in a free 'box' mooring and, if necessary move tomorrow, in daylight. I think we may just have a day of rest tomorrow, after all it is Sunday. So far no luck with WiFi here and I'm off to bed, it's 00:20.

Friday 10 June 2011

It is the crack of dawn, well almost, it's 06:00 here and we are preparing for sea at 07:00. The wind is a constant 15 knots NWxW so I am hoping the sea state will be reasonably calm. Our first line is toward Darsser Ort before turning right and onwards.

Now that was a good sailing day! We had a beam reach to Darsser Ort and then a brief but excellent broad reach before a following wind took us to the entrance to the inland waterway en-route to Stralsund. We arrived here at 16:10 and got ourselves tucked up on a pontoon with some of the other sailing yachts that had come in our small flotilla. All in there were 17 yachts all making for this area so it was quite busy. The City Marina is not new but it does have electricity and WLAN which unfortunately is not operational.

Christine, Ben and I have been around the town and found a very pleasant restaurant that served local cuisine - yummy! We took the back streets to the town centre which reminded me of the movie 'Harry Lime'; cobbled streets and multi story apartment blocks in pre 40's style. Well! we were walking along with Ben on his lead and Christine just behind me when there was screech of cars and along came two Polizai vehicles and the first stopped just in front of me and the other just behind me. a large burly policemand jumped out of the front car brandishing a long truncheon and a policewoman jumped out of the rear car with gun un-holstered! I thought what have I done? With that four polizai rushed across the cobbled street and through a large communal door and that was that excitement over! Tomorrow we need to get fuel as the next place, the last before we set off for Bornholm, does not have any fuel for boats. We also have to be at the lifting bridge for 08:20 when it opens otherwise we will have to wait until 12:20. And so tomorrow our target is Sassnitz on the north eastern side of the island of Rugen!

Thursday 9 June 2011

What a windy night, it reached 39 knots, and just howled all night driving the rain through the cracks in the hatch. Our four mooring lines to two posts at the front and two bollards on the pontoon held well and I am now much happier about 'box' mooring for heavy weather. As this morning wore on the wind has decreased to a mere F4 and the sun is again shining on us. We again caught the ferry to the other side of the river to visit the vet so that Ben could get his worm treatment and 'Pet Passport' signed up ready for entry into Sweden. That all done and then lunch, we came back to top up the boat's tanks with water ready to leave for Rugen at 07:00 tomorrow. We are to sail along with a Swedish couple on their yacht 'Liberty', and although neither of us speak the others language we seem to communicate quite well. It may well turn out that a small 'armada' will make the journey because of the strong winds of the last few days.

Wednesday 8 June 2011

It's been a funny old day - no wind this morning with fog that lifted at about 08:30, then sunshine and a light breeze followed, this afternoon, by heavy showers and earlier this evening with cloud and light rain showers. We caught the little free ferry from Hohe Dune to Warnemunde at 11:00 and meandered around, had a very nice light lunch at a town cafe and then found the local supermarket to stock up. We caught the 15:00 ferry back to the marina and I was delighted when the ferry skipper loaned me a waterproof when it started to rain. Tonight we had supper on board and watched 'Mission Impossible 2' between slurping a coffee liqueur and Pinot Grigot. It is now 23:00 local and the wind has moved round from the east to south west but increased to F6 (~14 metres per second or ~28 knots ish) - glad we are here! We are going to have to get used to seeing the wind strength in metres per second which equates to approximately half the speed in knots , all very confusing.

Tuesday 7 June 2011

Thunder & lightening with heavy downpours of rain so far! We got up at the crack of dawn (0530) in readiness to continue on our way but continued downpours and a forecast for more throughout the day led to us reconsidering our stay here and here we will stay - It has everything we need and relative luxury! It is now 0900 and the BBC news is on the internet whilst we plan to take the 1/2 hourly ferry across the river to the town of Warnem�nde after 1000. The rain is now almost constant and visibility is down to about 1/4 mile, another good reason for staying tucked up here.

Monday 6 June 2011

This morning we were up early and did a little shopping at NETTO before going to the chandlery to get charts and Gaz. The Gaz seemed expensive at £24.00 but it seems to be a fixed price! We now have detailed charts that will take us up to Stockholm and Gotland if we want to go that way. We saw the chart book for the Gota canal (Serie 8) but they had none in stock. We readied the boat with all shopping stowed and the boat ship shape before making the journey the 6 miles to Warnemunde. The marina is huge with a combined hotel complex and conference centre with some very up-market restaurants. Very reasonably priced at £17.00 c/w electricity and WLAN. The showers are to die for and are 'doubles'!

Sunday 5 June 2011

Another gorgeous day - no wind either! There are just three boats on our pontoon, capable of taking twenty, so it is peaceful here. The harbourmaster has not yet surfaced and the whole town seems to take Sunday seriously.

The day is moving on at a leisurely pace here. The harbourmaster, Ronald, turned up at his office at 1030 so we paid our dues until Monday. That done, all three of us took in the town and joined lots of other tourists whiling away the time. We did come up on a little gem for lunch, a small family run cafe in the klosters of the big church. We had a really good light lunch and a beer and Ben a fresh bowl of water before completing our tour and returning to the boat for a well earned nap. It is now 1830 local and the sun is still hot (it has been 26 C most of the day), however, the wind has picked up to 12 knots which has a very welcoming cooling influence.

Saturday 4 June 2011

After a very quiet night we set off for our next destination, Rostock, at 0920. There was no wind to speak of at first but as the day wore on it picked up to a nice 11 knots at 40 degrees off the bow. The sea was initially flat and then picked up to big ripples this afternoon. We decided to come up the river to the centre of town some six miles where we arrived at a nice 'basic' marina 'Marina Im Stadthafen' at 1800. A quick shufty ashore found a potentially nice restaurant but the harbourmaster had gone home so no WiFi and no shower codes - yet! Ben took his evening constitutional and there is clobbering about on deck from Christine doing her stuff whatever that might be! I'm hungry! We have eaten a lovely meal at 'Borwin Hafen Restauarant', which is alongside the marina. It was brimming with local people so we thought that was a good indicator and it was! We intend to stay here until at least Monday to pick up Gaz, a replacement Yanmar oil filter and look around the, what looks like a fantazmagorical chandlers on Monday morning.

Friday 3 June 2011

We are now moored in a small marina called Segler-Vereinigung Heiligenhafen amongst a party of boats fro Denmark. It's lovely and quiet with no other English people or boats about.

Yesterday was fairly quiet because nowhere was open, it was a bank holiday. I found that my bicycle tyre was flat and had to wait until this morning for the bike shop to open for a new inner tube. That fitted, we set sail to find fuel at a small fishing port called Schiffsausrustung on the east side of the Kiel Forde. £84.12 later at £1.44 a litre we moved quickly on in the brilliant sunshine and a beam wind of about 8Kn to our current location just west of the bridge across to Fehmarn island. A flat sea and good weather is just the job for our adventure and tonight we are surrounded by people sitting in their cockpits chatting. Ben has been fed and walked and supper is gently coming along on the induction hob. With a glass of wine in our hand we are signing off for tonight.

Wednesday 1 June 2011

We left Rendsburg on a cool but sunny morning bound for Holtenau lock at the north end of the Kiel canal some 2.5-3 hours journey. When we did arrive the yachts that had left before us were sitting in the lock waiting and we were the last to go in. The lock gates closed behind us and I scurried to the lock keepers office to pay my dues. I was expecting to pay about 47.00� and was pleasantly surprised when asked for 12.00�. By now the weather was brilliant sunshine and not a cloud in the sky, as we made our way just round the corner to the British Kiel Yacht Club (BKYC). Baz was waiting to greet us and take our ropes as we backed in, stern to, onto the pontoon.

Having settled down and visited the duty sapper to pay for 2 nights we got our bikes ready and took the slight hill toward the local store, a LIDL. We also learned that a BBQ was being held at 17:30 and we paid our contribution to attend. We met another British couple who, in the conversation turned out to be good friends of our friends in the UK. We had got their contact details for when we arrived in the Baltic - never expecting them to be two boats away. Anyway we had a good evening together and between G&T's perused their charts and discussed our independent plans. Thursday is a bank holiday here so no shops are open. I plan to service my boat engine with an oil and filter change and generally give the boat a little TLC.

The staff of BKYC are great and we were made very welcome by all here, both serving and civilian personnel.

Tuesday 31 May 2011

We were up at 0600 local and showered by 0645. Yesterday the 68 mile or so journey from Norderney to Cuxhaven took only a quarter of a tank of fuel so we won't bother to top up here. The day started with sunshine but it's now 0800 and has become overcast - looks like it is gonna rain! We moved on with our Dutch friends at 0900.

Our journey to Brunsbuttel was cold and damp with huge great ships passing every few minutes. The two hour journey concluded with joining about twenty other smallish boats in the waiting area of the locks. A large ship entered first and then a tannoy announced that the rest could enter. What a mad rush that was, the river current was running at about 2 knots across the entrance so fun was had by all when it was found that we could not enter the lock for a further ten minutes. Anyway we eventually went in and found ourselves third out in the front line of small boats; that meant we we would be first to leave!

After a five hour boring, drudge of a journey with no real change in scenery we entered the outskirts of Rendsburg, a very old German town. We followed a couple of Dutch friends into the marina 'Regatta-Verein Rendsburg' where we moored bow to in a 'Box' with posts. On visiting the harbourmasters office we came upon the yacht club 'Riverside' restaurant which was packed with locals - so what better recommendation! We had a great meal and have returned to our boat to watch a DVD and then bed. Tomorrow is a short sailing day up to Kiel so we plan to visit the local town for sightseeing and a little shopping before moving on.

Monday 30 May 2011

We are up early this morning for it is looking like it is going to be good conditions for setting off for the Elbe. The plan is to go up the Elbe on a flooding tide which means that the journey there will be against the tide. We waved farewell to our friends from Suvi as they set off for Helgoland at 06:00. We did the pre-checks for sailing and left at about 09:30 local. The journey was almost windless so we motor sailed all the way. I have to say navigating was easy as there are buoys at regular intervals all the way from Norderney.

It is now 22:20 and we have been in Cuxhaven since 21:10. The SVC (Segler-Vereinigung Cuxhave) marina is ideal and you can enter easily at any time. There is a machine, adjacent to the Havenmasters office and stairs to the club, which takes Euro cash in exchange for a card which allows access to the facilities and gives £5.00 of electricity. The charge is £17.00 with a £10.00 deposit for the card. Diesel is available within the marina using a credit card machine (It was £1.66 per litre - ouch!) The clubhouse is very smart and, on the night was well attended. Prices were very reasonable although for us the restaurant kitchens had closed at 21:00. There is WiFi but it needs a voucher from the marina office, it is not free (£3.00 for 1 hour).

Sunday, we did very little as the weather was fairly miserable, so I set up the Satellite TV and watched the Monaco Grand Prix. Last night was spent at the marina bar with English friends who sailed off this morning and our Dutch friends who we sail in company with today. The boat was tidied and hoovered, water filled and fuel checked together with a look at today's passage plan and any regulations that we need pay regard to with regard to the shipping lanes (TSS) and protected areas. Our slow cooker did a great job on the chicken with Christine's expertise and we finished the day with a DVD, 'The Bucket List', then bed.

Saturday 28 May 2011

Just read the NAVTEX forecast for the German Bight. Another day of F6-7 winds with wave heights of up to 3 metres is forecast until Sunday morning. Hence, we are not going anywhere outside of this marina on our boat! We even have the heating on and Ben is curled up into a tight ball in the corner of the cabin. Our plan is to get an extended WiFi ticket and use it for making Skype calls. We also plan to visit the town to do a bit of shopping in readiness for Monday when we hope to get away heading for Cuxhaven, some 50 miles east.

It is now 1800 local time and there has been no abatement with the wind but we have got a 'bonus' of constant horizontal rain! We've managed to achieve our daily tasks and once we complete our Skype session to family we are off to eat at the 'BootHaus' restaurant some 75 metres away.

Excellent fish meal and pudding and good value for money. Watched a DVD then went to bed and snuggled up to the sound of howling wind and torrential rain. At 0330 the weather picked up and the wind dropped off to a F3-4 with no rain.

Friday 27 May 2011

What a rough night it was, the boat rocked and rolled with the wind howling outside. The plan for today is to get a, working, bell for my bike and visit a local supermarket for fresh victuals before Christine takes Ben sightseeing along the sand dunes to a view point in the 'national park' area.

Got the bell for my cycle - will fit it tomorrow. Visit to local supermarket, which is a five minute walk away, was good and was very much like a Lidl. It was too windy with some really heavy showers to venture too far, so Ben got to go to his favourite beach where the bunny rabbits roam! At 1800 we ventured to the marina bar with our friends off 'Suvi' for a couple of beers before returning to our boat for a nice paella and another DVD.

Thursday 26 May 2011

This morning is sunny and with a breeze of about F4. We had an 'international' meeting of 6 Dutch, 2 German and 4 English to decide on whether or not to head for The Elbe and Cuxhaven or stay here! After much happy debate and the latest radio warning for worse weather to come we unanimously decided to stay put in Norderney. It now looks like we could be here until next Monday, unless the weather shows improvement and we consider a night sail to The Elbe. We have been reminded that the authorities are very keen on applying the TSS rules to yachtsmen and we have been advised to stay more than a mile outside of the shipping lane to avoid receiving an heavy penalty.

Ben loves it here because of the beaches, that have numerous bunny rabbits bouncing around. He runs round like a mad thing and then observes the rabbits observing him like a March Hare! There is a chandlery here which I am about to visit before we explore the interior of the island on our bicycles.

Gosh! It is windy! the wind is a steady 27kn and expected to worsen later. We plucked up courage and, leaving Ben on watch aboard, we cycled to the town some 2Km west. Once there we parked up the bikes and took in the sites on foot. Nice clean holiday resort with lots of expensive bric-a brac shops plus a couple of small supermarkets which we used for victuals. Again we had problems using our bank cards, both Visa and Master Card, although we didn't have to use an ATM it is a matter of slight concern. We had a light lunch of local meat soup in a little cafe which was excellent value and the lady who served us was very pleasant. On the way back to the boat turned out to be a bit of a toil! The wind was blowing a 'hooley' into our faces and coming off the sand beach it was like being sand blasted. We did manage to take the back streets though which, to some degree made the job easier. Tonight is a night in watching a DVD or two.

Wednesday 25 May 2011

We left Noordergat marina this morning at 0640 and entered the lock into the North Sea at 0700. The first 3 hours were really bumpy with rip tides in amongst the sand banks and wind over tide to boot. The buoyage was excellent and we eventually got into the small boat channel where the first of us to appreciate the change in movement was Ben who had been clinging on to anything he could to stay up. There were plenty of other sailing boats making the same journey, having been storm bound for the three days. Norderney is a German seaside town and a stopping off place for yachts going east so we were quick to hoist our German courtesy flag and put away the Netherlands flag.

We are, as yet, undecided about moving on tomorrow to Cuxhaven - depending on the weather forecast, which we will get after having supper. There is said to be more windy weather approaching but we are not sure if it is for Friday or before; however, if we do stay it could be for 5 days or more!

Tuesday 24 May 2011

That's it - rest day over! It looks like we have a weather window tomorrow and we hope to get through the lock at about 0700 local time. Prediction from WindGuru is for a F3-4 and a high water at Dover of 0552 and 1818 which is ok for us making for Nordeney.

We have not really done much today except lol about, had drinks this evening with Clare & Simon to discuss passage plans and chatted to our Dutch friends who are also planning to leave at about the same time. The boat is ready to go with fuel and water topped up and bikes stowed. Supper has been eaten and Ben given his evening constitutional. We now watch a DVD before turning in - ready to go!

Monday 23 May 2011

The weather is still unsuitable for us to move on so we have had the opportunity to visit the island of ShiermonniKoog about a 45 minute ferry trip away. We decided to take the bicycles with us and Ben and from the boat to the ferry terminal took us about 8 minutes. there was a nice cafe on route in which we took refreshment before joining the ferry at 1330. It's not a cheap day out, with the ferry costing £12.35 each, £8.50 per bike and £8.10 for Ben. However, the island is very nice and quiet with lots of places to take coffee or grander cuisine. We met up with fellow sailors Clare and Simon and had a beer with them before cycling back in high winds to the ferry. tonight it's a little Chelsea Flower Show TV and then - who knows!? Oh! The ferry terminal has an ATM which works with Visa cards. All in all a good day out.

Tomorrow looks like being another no-go day so we will call it a rest day!

Sunday 22 May 2011

Weather forecast is SE 4-5 shifting W F6, showers and thundery! Sea state is 1-2 metres expected to reach 3 metres so we have decided to stay here as it is also raining. The good side is that it only costs £11.00 per night and there is internet access and electricity. It's 0930 local now so there is a lot of day left, so I could get the satellite TV up and running or just watch a DVD or two.

Nice restful day watching the F1 Racing and seeing Hamilton come second - good race though! The wind is definitely F6+ and even sheltered by the dyke it is a little 'rocky' in the marina. We may be here until Thursday according to the locals and the weather report states wave heights to be 2.8+ metres so leaving is a no-no! We are set up to watch BBC1 Countryfile and then hopefully Antiques Roadshow. I can smell my favourite veg, cauliflower, which is on the menu with some ham so I have to go now.

Saturday 21 May 2011

Tonight we have arrived at Noordergat Marina in the Lauwersmeer which is loverly! We have made friends with the local yacht club and been invited to join them at 2100 but before then we are going out to dinner with some new friends who fly the Blue Ensign. The marina is excellent value for money and has internet access and a washeteria which is again good value. This is looking like a very good evening of fun. We walked 'miles' to the recommended restaurant called 'Pierhead' which is on the far side of the dyke. We arrived at 2055 and the waitress said that they took last orders at 2000! After some persuasion we managed to get the four of us fixed up with what turned out to be an excellent fish meal. I suppose being supplied by the local fishing fleet in the adjacent harbour the fish could not have been fresher. We also tried a local aperitif or two, Schippecs Bitter and Bareyburg; both were different but my favourite was the latter. We eventually arrived back to the boat on our bikes at 2330. Our friends got a lift with our waitress and Ben ran all the way, keeping up with our bicycles.

It is 1320 local and we have stopped off for lunch at Dokkum, a really quaint old traditional Dutch town with lots of waterways wending their way through the 'streets' of cafes and restaurants. We have just had a beer and cake at one of the waterside cafes which was very tasty. in about 1/2 an hour we will set off for the coast and our last stop before entering the North Sea. The journey to here has been delightfully rural with the flat field of cattle and a speckling of Windmills adding to the charm.

Last night we stopped at Leeuwarden overnight but as the capital of Friesland it did not have the same charm as the villages. We also had to sit outside the centre because the bridges closed at 1900 and we arrived at 1905 - Argh!.

We fell into potentially irresponsible company in Lemmer with Brit, Nick Roberto & Marten inviting us to join them for a drink and then another!!! Very enjoyable afternoon we had and then an expensive visit to the chandlery.

Thursday 19 May 2011

We have now crossed the Ijsselmeer to Lemmer where we will overnight before going on the canal toward the North Sea. The place is a real find and having come in the southern small boat entrance we found ourselves in the middle of town with cafes, restaurants and shops on both sides of the canal. I also got a treat and found I had moored in front of the very nice chandlery. We managed to get some loot out of our bank in readiness to pay for the locks and bridges to be opened. Christine is just putting the supper on' slow cooked chicken' - yummee! after that we will find ourselves a nice cafe for coffee and a local cake. This is a really nice stop I do have to say!

Wednesday 18 May 2011

Left Sixhaven at about 1030 and topped up with fuel just before leaving the North Sea canal. Good price was paid at just £1.29/litre. Exiting the canal was quite painless, sharing with three other pleasure crafty, and we then waited ten minutes for the road bridge to open. Once through the bridge we pottered along the buoy lined route to the eastern lock of the Markermeer Dyke to enter the Ijsselmeer at Lelystad. With a fairly cold wind blowing and no sunshine we decided to stop at Deko Marina (£16.00 per night with electricity and WiFi access. However, they only accept cash; there is an ATM at the local supermarket some 10 minutes walk away in Lelystad town.

Tuesday 17 May 2011

We did well to make this a stopover today for it rained until 1130 local! Christine, Ben and I decided to take a trip around the city once the rain ceased and we made our way to the, free, ferry from Sixhaven accordingly. I must have looked like a salty old skipper or something unmentionable because we got to the ferry and were invited by a film crew to participate in a 'shoot'. The job was for me to hold the title cards up and drop each one as instructed by the director. So, if anyone ever visits one of the museums in Amsterdam where there is an exhibition of a local poets work, you may just notice the bit part I had!

We ventured into the old town and 'red light' area of town where Christine eventually noticed the scantily clad lady or two in the window! She averted her eyes and I confirmed that the ladies were in fact real by taking a longer look! Ben introduced us to two nice ladies with a dog in the basket of one of their bicycles and they gave us instructions on where to have a light lunch. The 'In de Waag' cafe was in the New Market square where we enjoyed some spicy cauliflower soup followed by black pudding and apple for me and apple pie for Christine. Tonight we were invited aboard 'Wagtail' for pre dinner drinks and to meet new friends. It is now 2215 local and we've just finished supper of steak and mushrooms whilst watching a movie before going to bed. Tomorrow we could move on toward the Ijsselmeer and Stavoren, Workum or Makkum. We also have to consider which route to take; the canals to Delfzijl or to leave the Ijsselmeer and go round the Frisian islands - Decisions, decisions!!!

Monday 16 May 2011

On Sunday morning we got up at the crack of dawn, well almost, and had breakfast by 0700. I noticed that the echo sounder was reading only 0.2 meters at 0730 and we had planned to move off at 0800. I again checked the depth ten minutes later and it was reading 0 metres below the keel - time to go and quickly! We ploughed a furrow in the mud out of the marina at 0750 and set off in a cold wind almost on the nose for next destination (unknown - suck it and see how far we get sort of day!). We made good progress and met up with an elderly Dutch couple who asked if we were heading for Amsterdam as they were. We enquired whether they intended to go all the way in the day and they said yes, that was their intention. Anyway we tagged along and leisurely set a good pace onward. Our intention had been to go to Amsterdam via Haarlem but this was changed to go via Schipol. The Dutch couple said we would be in Amsterdam by 2130 and said we would not have to take the night convoy! Wrong! We got to the bridges adjacent to Schipol airport at 1630 to be told that we would have to wait until 1930 for the bridges to open. It turned out that we needed to join a convoy of four yachts, in all, to make the last short stretch through the outskirts of Amsterdam setting off at 0100 - Gulp! We took advantage of our stop and went to bed at 1900, getting up at 2330, and then joined the convoy. It was quite exciting coming through the canals in the wee small hours and trying to get our speed between the lifting bridges to coincide with the bridge keepers cycling was not without difficulty. We eventually arrived just one bridge from The Noord Sea Canal at 0245, tied against the wall and went to bed. Although unexpected the trip via convoy was good, quite challenging, fun and i would recommend the choice to anyone. I should add that the last bridge is opened by request.

This morning, 16th, we got up at 0800 and after some confusion we set off to go through the last bridge and onward the short distance to Sixhaven Marina. Here we are now tucked in and paid up for two days at £15.50 which includes WiFi.

Saturday 14 May 2011

Spent a quiet morning in Willemstad whilst our friends sorted out a water pump. The chandlers is excellent with loads of expensive clothes and a good stock of boat bits and charts. I found that I needed some charts for the next bit of our journey to Amsterdam and on looking in the chandlery came across an ANWB Wateratlas 'Staande Mastroute, Willemstad to Delfzil' (ISBN 978-90-18-02813-8) price £19.50. A real bonus as it contains all the charts and information we need to get to the North Sea by canal.

Our overnight stay cost us £14.00 which was excellent value and the facilities were also excellent. We set off downwind which was about F5-6 and headed for Dordrecht motor sailing. Once at Dordrecht we had to wait almost 3/4 of an hour for the road and railway bridge to open before moving on to the next bridge at Spendrecht which meant another 50 minute wait. Eventually we arrived at a small yacht haven, Sint Joris, where the overnight with electric and showers was a mere £11.00. The wind has remained at about F5-6 with a fairly cold bite to it. The movie we are watching tonight is Mr & Mrs Smith!

Friday 13 May 2011

Left Kortgene at 0900 local bound for Willemstad. Glorious day but with little wind on our beam. We passed through three locks before reaching our destination at 1630 local. The locks are quite different fro those we experienced on the French canals as they change the height of water by less than 1.5 metres. The harbourmaster welcomed us into the harbour and once we had tied up he pottered round to see us on his bike before heading off home. Ben has already made friends with a family of children and has been swimming! He is now in a playful mood and tossing toys around in all directions in the main cabin. Supper is French runner beans, new potatoes and mince with onions; yummy - but first our walk around this ancient town! We have already heard the gentle chiming of the town clock bells.

Thursday 12 May 2011

Whilst our friends fixed their engine controls and a few other bits and bobs we spent yesterday morning mooching around Middelburg getting money from the ATM and generally relaxing. A really nice town with lots of coffee houses! We left at 0930 for Veerse arriving through the lock just before lunch. Having tied up on the free moorings Christine, Myself and Ben visited the town which was exemplary and again had some fine restaurants and coffee houses. The weather was very kind yet again and we sat in the main boulevard together with other visitors drinking coffee and having nice cakes. We were very impressed with the place, in particular with the chiming bells of the local museum. At 1630 both boats sailed for a little island called Mosselplaat where we enjoyed a free mooring and a BBQ.

After a quiet night on our deserted island we enjoyed our breakfast and a quick walk round the island before setting off for Kortgene just a couple of hours sail along the Veerse Meer. We are now tucked up in a nice marina called Delta marina. It has free wifi and excellent facilities for £21.30 per night. The restaurant has barbequed spare ribs on this evening which sounds just the job to me! Just got back from supper of spare ribs for me and fish for Christine at Restaurant het Veerhuis in Kortgene, Netherlands (www.het-veerhuis.net ). The meals were excellent.

Tuesday 10 May 2011

Came up the canal towing 'Wagtail' and successfully navigating the four lifting bridges with ease. Middelburg is a really great place and very Dutch. The number of boats and traditional old houses is quite impressive and walking through the centre of the town with lots of people sat outside drinking coffee in amongst the many cyclists is most unusual for us. Our team of intrepid sailors with engine control cable problems have managed to replace the cable and conducted repairs to the stem fittings with only the new nav light to fit when it arrives possibly on Thursday. The skipper is considering sailing on and returning by bus to collect the bit. Fuel here is considerably more expensive than in Belgium at £1.84 per litre, so we were pleased to have diverted to fill up. We had a minor crisis at the supermarket today when we came to pay for our trolley full of groceries! They refused to accept our credit cards, and we just managed to have enough hard cash to pay our way. Tonight after supper we are watching Clint Eastwood before going to bed.

Monday 9 may 2011

Up at the crack of dawn this morning, 0430, and ready to move off toward Niewport at 0530 as the sun came up. Arriving at Niewport to pick up some desperately needed diesel we were very disappointed when the marina capitaine said the pump was not working - Argh! after prompting he said that we might get our fuel at a pump around the corner of the river some 15 minutes away. Well, we got to the fuel pumps and after attempting five times to get the card operated pumps to deliver we were successful! Back on transit we headed for Ostend to meet up with our companions and fully expected to stay there over night; but that was not to be. After a light lunch we set of yet again for Vlissengen and eventually arrived at the lock for 1830. The lock proved uneventful for us but a nightmare for our companions when the engine controls snapped and the boat careered into the front lock gate. The Nav light was smashed and a little damage was done to the bow roller, otherwise nothing too bad except that the engine could not be used. we rigged a tow and Inadee managed to tow them to a little marina here. Tomorrow we will to them through the canal to Middleburg where the engine control cable can hopefully be replaced.

Our fuel in Belgium cost £1.44 a litre and totalled £88.00.

Sunday 8 May 2011

We have had a very good crossing from Dover to Dunkerque and the sea state over the shipping lanes was ideal and very smooth. Up the coast from Calais the wind picked up, 19kn, and we had a broad reach along the line of buoys to the entrance to Port Est. Berthing at the YCMN marina was easy and everyone there was friendly. After sharing drinks with the crew of 'Wagtail', fellow Hornet members we had supper and then Ben dragged me to the yacht club bar for a constitutional. This morning I paid the capitaine our dues of £23.70 and £1 for internet access per day (excellent!).

We are expecting guests at lunchtime who, by chance, are passing through the town which means we now plan to move on at the crack of dawn tomorrow (Monday 9th May). So far this has been a nice place to berth and we may even get a chance to potter round town later. Christine and I had a superb lunch in the yacht club with Ben lying at our feet and being fussed over by the other diners. The soupe de poisson for starter and scallops main course were delicious as was the half carafe of white wine we drank to quench our thirst.

Friday 6 May 2011

Finally got the weather window to leave Gosport on Thursday 5th at 0530 on a crisp morning. The sea state was moderate as we made our way through the 'Gap' in the submarine barrier heading east and Ben was not too happy at first until he found his sea legs and a comfy spot in the main cabin. After a cool morning sail the sun came out and the sea state reduced to 'slight' with just one or two patches of roughish water to contend with. The wind continued to blow from the east force 3-4 - agh! We decided to overnight at Eastbourne ready for our next leg to Dover and entered the lock at 1745, tying up at the floating pontoon in the lock. Sovereign marina is very nice and the showers are great with lots of room to move about in. The marina facilities are good and the 'Waterfront' area has some reasonable restaurants, a yacht club and small supermarket with a few shops.

I just need to check the engine and do one or two jobs before we set off, east, for Dover.

Arrived Dover marina at 1545 after a pleasant motor sail across a smooth sea from Eastbourne. The marina is reasonable and we are tucked into pontoon E49 in the Granville Docks. Cost is £23.00 with electricity and access to the internet via an old PC. We came across a seafood stall called Suzy's when taking Ben for his constitutional along the pebble beach. Christine got herself a couple of crab claws and I settled for a scrumptious prawn sandwich. Tonight the induction hob again comes to our aid and after a light fish salad starter we are having a fish risotto - loverly! It could be an early start tomorrow because the lock gates shut at about 0630, however, the tide does not change in our favour to get to Dunkirque until about 1200 which means we could wait for the gates to open at about 1100; we'll see how we feel tomorrow!

Saturday 30 April 2011

Now waiting for a suitable weather window to sail out of Portsmouth and head east towards Dover. The synopsis below indicates that we will probably not get away until Thursday, 5th May. Plan to enjoy post Royal Wedding 'Hog Roast' later at yacht club.

Planning the Baltic Trip

It's mid February and with the 'green light' to go, the planning phase starts. The trip will take us via France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany and, having reached the Baltic at Kiel, the prospective Baltic countries Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Russia, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and Finland. First we have to plan our route to Kiel via the Kiel canal with due regard to comfort and our dog Ben. Our first job was to check with DEFRA to make sure the pets papers and health requirements were acceptable for all countries to be visited - which they are! The liferaft is in date for the duration of the trip so that's another item checked off the tick list. Although we do not expect too much difficulty getting our hands on our cash we have taken advantage of the Thomas Cook 'Prepaid Currency Card' which enables us to use Euros with minimum cost for exchange.

In order to meet with legal requirements to have ATIS enabled VHF and holding tank deck pump-out facilities Inadee have been brought up to date prior to the start of the trip. The ATIS number assigned for Inadee is 9235021176; this is achieved by prefixing the MMSI 235021176 with the figure 9.

Our experience of communicating with family and friends whilst travelling through the French canals indicated the need to have cost effective internet access. When there was no free internet access available, which was often the case. We used an SFR dongle in France and the local Italian telephone company dongle in Italy. This venture, I intended using an international internet access dongle, and after much research came up with a PAYG / No Contract dongle from an Austrian company called www.abroadband.com. This will enable access to the internet throughout all the countries we visit at a cost of ~�0.50 per Mb. It will still be preferable to use free WiFi but, in the event that this is not available, we can communicate.

I remembered to extend the insurance cruising area to include the Baltic and luckily double checked the area covered, initially it only covered West of 10 degrees East!

Passage to Kiel

Our intention is to leave Portsmouth at the end of April, early May, and overnight at Newhaven, Dover, Dunkirque and Vlissingen.

1. From Vlissingen our first option is to take the 'Standing Mast Route' via the Walcheren canal, Veerse Meer, Oosterschelde, Volkerak past Willemstad and into the Hollandsdiep south of Dordrecht. Continuing, we go through to Rotterdam and into the Westerkanaal to Gouda past Schipol airport and into Amsterdam. Moving on via the Markermeer and Ijsselmeer, we can again enter the canal system at Lemmer or Stavoren and head for Delfzijl via Leeuwarden, Dokkum, Lauwersmeer, Zoutkamp and Groningen. In order to enter the Dutch waterways it is necessary to have ATIS enabled VHF. To achieve this I applied to Ofcom for a 'Variation to my Ships Radio Licence' and allocation of the ATIS identifier. On receipt of the authorisation I sent off the transceiver to Icom for the change to be incorporated . I then merely switch over the operation of the radio to use the ATIS channels when in the European canal system. Delfzil, on the river Ems to the river Elbe and Brunsbuttel takes us, briefly into the North Sea, but we arrive at the start of the Kiel canal (Nordostsee Kanal). Going up the Kiel canal we will probably overnight at Rendsburg before the final leg to Kiel where we intend to stay at the British Kiel Yacht Club to stretch our legs.
2. We could go on to Ijmuiden and on to Amsterdam etc, cutting out the journey through the canals south of Amsterdam and saving them for the return trip.
3. The final option is to continue up the North Sea to Den Helder and then on to the Kiel Canal via the Frisian Islands. Although perhaps the quickest route, the coastline is very flat and a lee shore with not much of interest.

One place of interest is Helgoland, in the North Sea just off the German coast. This is a duty free port which could prove handy with the cost of alcohol being high in some Baltic countries.

Baltic 'Wishlist'

Commencing at Kiel in late May we plan to make for the eastern Baltic and on up to Stockholm. From a brief exploration of the Archipeligo we could go south to Arkosund and then enter the estuary into Mem and the Gota canal ('Sweden's Blue Ribbon'). We have received a superb guide to the harbours in the Stockholm archipelago called 'Arholma - Landsort and Gotland' by Lars Hassler & Lars Granath (ISBN 978-91-89564-44-2).