|

|
Friday 15th February, 2002. Yanmar 3GM30F delivered.
The 138Kg Yanmar engine seems very light in
comparison to the Bukh DV20 which weighed in at 210Kg. The Operators
Guide is excellent and I ordered the Workshop Manual which in comparison
to the Bukh, at three times the price, is good value. |
|
The lifting lugs are well positioned and enabled the
engine to be lifted directly into the boat. The engine was positioned on
the cabin sole prior to positioning in the engine compartment. The
engine was delivered on time, albeit with a B type control panel rather
the than the latest B2 (with hour meter). |
 |
|

|
The photograph on the left shows the engine
compartment after removal of the Bukh and prior to modification of the
engine bearers. The large anti-vibration mountings that come with the
Yanmar require the bearers to be reduced by approximately 70mm. The new
engine will require extended throttle and gear control cables together
with an engine stop cable. |
|
Not a job for the feint hearted! A power saw made fairly
light work of removal of the bearer, although it was difficult to keep
the cut across the bearer level. The infill within each bearer is solid
foam of which 70mm was removed with a sharp chisel. A mask and
powerful vacuum cleaner are essentials! |
 |
|

|
Next on the list for modification of the
bearers was to insert hardwood supports. Mahogony blocks 565 x 69 x 69
were made and 'nudged' into the correct alignment before bolting through
using M10 coach bolts with large washers and Nyloc nuts. Height and
alignment with the centreline of the propshaft took account of the need
to sheath the Mahogony with glass fibre. The steel bearer plates are to
be mounted on the glass fibre. |
|
To manipulate the engine in and out of the engine
compartment is achieved using a block and tackle attached to the main
halyard. This in turn is controlled longitudinally by use of one of the
reefing lines attached to the rear of the boom. The blocks
used were 'three purchase' with a jam cleat mounted on the top block to
enable hoisting the engine by pulling down on the line. |
 |
|

|
Sunday 17th February, 2002. The photograph on
the left shows the engine ready to be lifted onto the modified bearers
once they have been sheathed in glass and given a coat of bilge paint. |
|
Thursday 20th February, 2002. Mahogony bearers sheathed
with three layers of glass fibre. This will be left to cure and then a
final gelcoat will be applied. |
 |
|

|
Photograph on left showing Anti-vibration
mountings bolted to locally manufactured bearer plates. These will be
secured to the engine and the yachts engine bearers. They were necessary
to account for the reduced width of the Yanmar compared with the Bukh. |
The bearers
given a final coat of paint, are ready to be assembled on the engine and
then bolted to the yachts engine bearers once the engine has been
aligned, give or take a couple of 'thou', with the prop shaft. Final
alignment can be achieved using the AVM bolts. |
 |
|

|
The final gel coat applied. The bearer plates
remain to be fitted and then the engine will be positioned into place.
Then the length of the prop shaft and the control cables will be
calculated. |
The engine is
finally positioned and bolted to the yachts bearers. All that remains in
the alignment process is to statically align the engine with the prop
shaft, using feeler gauges between the prop shaft and engine drive
flanges. The gap should be the same all round the flange and if one
flange is rotated in 90 degree steps the gap should remain the same. |
 |
|

|
Although the connection between the gear and
prop shaft will be via a flexible coupling, alignment is carried out by
easing the prop shaft back toward the engine so that the gap is
relatively small enough to insert feeler gauges. |
|
The photo on the right shows the feeler gauges in use,
checking the all round gap between the two flanges. Once all
adjustments are made, the prop shaft will be eased back and the flexible
coupling will be fitted between the two flanges. Because the flexible
coupling is made from non-conducting material an earthing strap will be
inserted to make contact with each flange. |
 |

|
Just to be sure of the alignment a dial gauge
indicator was used to check the relative position of the flanges through
180 degrees.
A new Volvo shaft seal is to be fitted before the boat is launched,
taking note to bleed the air from within the stern tube when the launch
takes place. |
|
The moment to wait for! The new Autoprop is assembled
onto the new 25mm prop shaft which was machined with the ISO standard
taper. Loctite was used on the brass shaft nut which was torque
tightened. The nut was also drilled before tightening the grub screw, to
which Loctite was applied. |
 |
|

|
A new Cutlass bearing was fitted into the 'P'
bracket and the new 'Spurs' rope cutter fitted to the shaft. The stator
of the rope cutter was secured to the 'P' bracket using three M8 hex
headed bolts using Loctite. Click Autoprop
to see the video. It may take a little time to download. |
|
The shaft was carefully cut to length to ensure that
the cutter was correctly aligned with the stator and the shaft flange
was then secured to the shaft.
The flexible coupling was then fitted between the two flanges and the
bolts tightened. Not shown is an earth link connecting the shaft
flange to the engine flange. |
 |
|

|
A new salt water filter is fitted, just above
the water line, to allow for clearing without any major mess. The fresh
water cooling expansion tank is visible to the rear. A new control lever
and cables will be fitted together with the electrical harness and fuel
feed and return pipework. A new type B2 engine control panel is expected
to be delivered which will be customised to fit the existing housing
sited in the forward end of the cockpit. |
The engine was
delivered with a A-Type panel then the old B-Type before finally getting
my hands on the new B-Type. Although the panel includes all components;
switch panel, tachometer with hour meter and the warning light module,
to fit the existing recess the panel required that the components be
split. The photo shows the switch and warning panel fitted into the
existing recess. The tachometer and hour meter is mounted adjacent to
the chart table. |
 |
 |
Fitting the cable is very simple. Just
connect the matching plugs and sockets. However, there are unused cables
and plugs behind the panel and on the engine. These are for optional
equipment and for a sail drive alarm when fitted. |
| In the Fulmar there is little
over a metre between the control panel and engine mounted plugs,
therefore the three metre long cable has to be shortened. The cable was
bundled and tie-wrapped alongside the existing wiring loom. |
 |
 |
The tachometer and integral hour meter is
mounted just above the main circuit breaker panel adjacent to the chart
table. Fortunately, no extra cabling was necessary between the other
control panel components. |
| The Boss, Christine, arrives
for inspection of the completed fitting of engine, Autoprop and 'Spurs'
rope cutter. The inspection complete, Christine set to and polished the
hull with its annual Farecla waxing. Just one or two minor jobs like
filling the engine cooling water, engine and gearbox oil, and launching
then we'll be in business. |
 |
  |
The two photographs on the left show the
Vetus watertrap in position just beneath the water tank. It is sited far
enough back to enable future access to the stern tube and Volvo seal. |
| The outlet from the watertrap
is led away to the outlet on the transom. The exhaust hose is looped up
toward the deckhead before being led down to the transom exhaust outlet. |
 |
 |
The photograph on the left shows the rear of
Morse control. The left hand cable controls the gear box and the centre
cable the throttle. The cables should be kept free from tight bends and
the throttle cable allowed to move freely on the lead to the Morse
control. On the front of the Morse control it is possible to adjust a
'break' to counteract any spring action of the engine controls. |
Tuesday 26th March 2002. Finally, this photo shows the
brass end fitting of the throttle cable. The cable must be screwed into
the end with the circlip and spring. Below the throttle is the engine
stop lever, painted yellow to enable quick identifying if required. I
have painted items which need to be identified at short notice with
yellow paint and these include the two fuel bleed points, on the top of
the fuel filter and injector pump, the bolts holding the salt water pump
in position and the fuel pump manual operating lever. The boat is
launched and the Volvo seal bled of air before the engine is started in
the water for the first time.
Pleased to say that everything seems A-OK. |
 |
Easter weekend. The good
weather meant cleaning the interior of the boat was made easier with the
added incentive of taking a trip to Yarmouth on completion.
Boat speed at 2500 RPM is 7 Knots. The next report
will be on completion of the all important Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) |
|
  |
Warranty inspection completed. Recommended to
install an anti-siphon device which is shown. This has been installed
well above the waterline (400mm minimum) to prevent cooling water
entering the engine, even when heeling. It is also worth a mention to
say that periodic maintenance of the device is required to prevent
clogging with salt crystals. |
|
June
2003 after experiencing some vibration when reducing speed and also
resonance a set of mountings produced by Yanmar
Australia were fitted.
The results were excellent and no further vibration or
resonance was apparent. |
 |
 |